I can't get my drive belt back on!?

I just changed the alternator in my 1998 chevy cavalier. I released the tension on the belt to get it off of the alternator and now I can't get it back over the new one. Any suggestions?
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
if you're releasing the tensioner and it's that hard sounds like you're not routing it quite right. check again to make sure you're putting on right. i usually put it around all the lower pulleys and the tensioner then remove the tension and put it over one of the easier to reach pulleys at the top last. a lot of people assume for some reason that the tensioner should be last and they take forever trying to get it on
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
Try routing it over the bigger pulleys first and then the smallest pulley as you release the tension from the tensioner
u have to release the tensioner to put it on also
it is a pain in the but. i had to take mine to a shop because it was being stupid and couldn't get it back. one of those things they make only for a body shopa nd you have to pay 200 bucks and it takes 2 secs
MAYBE YOUR WAISTLINE IS TO BIG.. TRY A LARGER SIZE,,,,
I would take it to the pros at autozone.
does the knew alternator have the same size pully on it as the old one. I worked at a parts shop and a lot of alternators that were bought from the store were the right ones, but the pulleys were different size. but everything else on them were the same. it was wierd, but the pulleys are easy to change, the nut on the pulley just unscrews counter clockwise, its best to do it with a impact wrench and have somebody hold the pulley while you unscrew it.
Check to see if the belt is the same length as the one which came off. Secondly, check to see if the alternator pulley is the same size or is it different. And lastly, if you released the tension to get the belt off, you'll need to do the same thing to get the new one back on.
if it will help you, you can put some grey tape over each puley and when you get to the tensioner just give it a pull with the appropriate tool, and thats it folks.

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Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?

I just bought a set of lowering springs for my miata, im not sure if its tough and what tools would i need?. ive done basic stuff on my car like oil changes, spark plugs, alternator, timing belt, etc. but ive never messed with the suspension.
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
You will need a set of jack stands, 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm and 17 mm wrenches and sockets, also a spring compressor. Parts of the suspension have to be undone to get the spring/shock assembly out to where you can work on replacing them.

I would suggest getting new shocks while you are at it. I use Gabriel's on my Miata. They are a lower end performance shock. Better yet just go ahead and get the parts to make the shocks springs adjustable in height. That way all you have to do is to set up the new assemblies, pull the old ones and install the replacements.
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
Not a very difficult task...You may need a 'spring clamp' to compress the springs to get them in...i just used a vice and lots of rope (dodgy way) but it worked

95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?

I need to change my alternator in my jeep and i need to find out where the tensioner is located, i need to loosen this belt before i can get the alternator off. all i need to know is where its at and how i will definitely know that's it when i find it. Thanks!
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
It's the 3%26quot;dia pulley just under the dipstick handle, 2%26quot; to right of the battery. Put a ~1/2%26quot; socket on it and turn clockwise and the pulley will move to the right an inch.
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
the tensioner pully is the only pully that has a flat serface

Do I have a Water Pump Problem?

I noticed my engine started to rattle before it started overheating. I thought it could be one of the common problems associated with older engines (screws become loose/stripped and need to be replaced)

Then, my car started to overheat. I thought it may be a radiator leak so I used some sealant and 2 days later it overheated again and I refilled it with coolant this time checking it after every drive. No noticeable instant leaks and every time i checked it coolant was at a good level.



This morning while pulling into my work parking lot I notice the temp gauge climbing so I put the car in park and let it cool down. I filled my car with coolant and watched it again for a leak and nothing happened.



While driving today (about 8 hours later) I decided to pull over pop the hood and see if I could pinpoint the leak after I've been driving and the car was idle. I noticed water pouring out directly under the engine. I could clearly see it from the small space between the engine and the radiator from the top view.



Could it be my water pump has gone bad? I just changed my started a few weeks ago and I wonder if it was damaged when it was temporarily removed. Or if it was just a coincidence..



Specs:

2001 V6 Mazda 626

190k miles

Alternator belt changed, timing belt changed (both at 120k)

Starter changed (190k miles)

Alternator changed (185k)

Tune up at 130k.



Known issues:

CV Joints needs replaced

Oil leak that seems to be fixed

Front brakes need to be changed.
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
could be the waterpump leaking, there is a weep hole at the bottom of the pump that will leak if it's bad, sometimes hard to see with the belt pulley in place.
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
From what you are saying it sounds like the water pump has to be replaced.
It could be a few different things:



1) your thermostat is stuck closed causing your engine to over heat and the coolant flowing out your car is from the overflow tank.



2) you blew a head gasket and its leaking between the head and the cylinder



3) you're leaking from the water pump
It certainly could be your waterpump, but it could also be a hose or gasket. The best bet is to bring it to a shop. They will pump pressure into the cooling system which will show the leak without just throwing parts at it. Should cost aroung $75 or so. Will save you money in the long run.

How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?

I looked around and I dont know how to release the tension of the belt. I see 2 bolts that hold the alternator in place thinking if i were to loosen the 1 at the pivoting point of alternator and removing 1 in the back I could rotate it. but alternator wont rotate.
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
hey!!!!dude

You don't need to do all that.



put a socket in the center nut of the belt tensioner and push it counter clock wise.

that gonna loose the belt.

remove the old one and put the new one.



P.S. You don't have the socket?no problemo, can You see that little square %26quot;hole%26quot; 3/8 by 3/8. put the 3/8 drive ratchet in it
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
are u sure that it is the right belt for the what you want



check with yahoo for what you want

take care

Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?

I have found the tensioner but need to know how to loosen it in order to remove the belt. There is the large bolt that is in the center of the pulley itself and then there is an inset bolt (smaller) on a piece behind the pulley (that has the belt wrapped around it).



Trying to replace the alternator.



Any information, pics or anything would be VERY helpful.
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
Look at the arm that the polley is fastened to. You should find a 3/8%26quot; square hole. Put you 3/8%26quot; drive ratchet in this hole and pull in the direction away from the belt. It is spring loaded. While holding tensioner released, slip belt off the alternator pulley, then release the tensioner.
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
most of them you just use a 3/8 drive ratchet without any socket. you should see a square hole for it to fit in.
DON'T LOOSEN THE MAIN BELT IDLER or TENSIONER!!!!!!



Disconnect the negative bat. terminal.

At the alternator.

Push both little tabs on the molex connectors and disconnect them both.

Loosen the alternator pivot bolts and loosten the adjustment arm bolts.

Pivot the alternator up to remove tension on the belt.

Remove the belt from the alternator.

Disconnect the pinch and pivot bolts and remove the alternator.

Installation is reversed.

You must adjust the tension on the belt with a drivebelt tension gauge. Some will say you don't but it's a sepinteen belt and must be tensioned correctly

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I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?

My fried changed the alternator, because it was not charging, now when I start it ,I believe the belts squeaks. If so how do I stop it????
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The belts are not tensioned correctly.



They are probably too loose.
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The alternator maybe on too tight. Or the belt is worn= Replace the belt.
the belt tension it too losse tighten it!
the belt squeaks becouse it is to loose. ckeck the belt and replace it if it has any shiney spots or if it is glazed otherwise

it is most likely loose, espically if it didn't make noise before

the alternator was changed
if they are then you didnt do it right is not tight enough or not on right should recheck belts and or alignment of belts there is a chance the new one has a bad bearing but more likely its loose should only have little movement in belts
All the 5 answers are right. Here's a little tip......if your alt belt is not changed, and you are not about to do the readjustments, use a stick of candle and rub the wax on the belt %26quot;V%26quot; sides. that should stop the squeaks
get a bar of soap and touch the bottom of the belt with it while the engine is running, I use Irish Spring, seems to work the best, only thing is I it failed the emission test afterward because my leprechauns were too high