I have a '94 Chevy Astro Van and the dashboard lights do not come on and I know it has shorted-out. Although the headlights turn on, the dashboard lights are out.
This happened right after I replaced the back lights because one was dead. Anyway, later that night, the fuse (which is 20amp) shorted. I replaced the fuse with a new 20 amp fuse and it blew out again when I turn on the headlights/dashboard lights (though the headlights and back lights are still on)
Anyone who gives a good suggestion (instead of the obvious %26quot;take it to a shop%26quot;) answer will be my new best friend and some points.
I am not a mechanic but I am trying to learn to fix my car on my own..(I have already done work on my van like changing the alternator, belt, brakes, battery, etc) so Please please help!
So my question is what would be the reason
'94 Chevy Astro Van Dashboard Fuse Shorted-Out?
The reason is there is a short in the dash lamps circuit. Check the owners manual for the list of items that are powered by the fuse that keeps burning out. Isolate each item on the list until you find the one that is shorted. Some libraries have service manuals you can check out to help with your quest. With 1700 GM dealerships going out of business you may be able to pick up the appropriate manuals at a dealer auction.
'94 Chevy Astro Van Dashboard Fuse Shorted-Out?
instrument cluster lights are not a 20amp fuse. Fuse for illumination or instrument cluster is suppose to be 5 or 10amp. Look in owners manual or on fuse panel to make sure it is the correct fuse placement.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Can't get Belt back on my DODGE. HELP!?
Changing the alternator on a 1995 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.0L
When I went to put the belt back in place it was loose and wouldn't give me slack
I changed the Tensioner Pulley and the belt is still loose
Please help.
Can't get Belt back on my DODGE. HELP!?
You say you changer the tensioner pulley, not the whole tensioner? They commonly go bad, replacing the whole thing is req'd(one large nut from behind) Or as mentioned, the routing is not correct. OR, you have the wrong belt~Dan
Can't get Belt back on my DODGE. HELP!?
Check the belt routing as compared to the underhood diagram.
When I went to put the belt back in place it was loose and wouldn't give me slack
I changed the Tensioner Pulley and the belt is still loose
Please help.
Can't get Belt back on my DODGE. HELP!?
You say you changer the tensioner pulley, not the whole tensioner? They commonly go bad, replacing the whole thing is req'd(one large nut from behind) Or as mentioned, the routing is not correct. OR, you have the wrong belt~Dan
Can't get Belt back on my DODGE. HELP!?
Check the belt routing as compared to the underhood diagram.
Car air connditioner repair?
I went to the mechanic to fix my air conditioner which was blowing warm air, which sucks during a Texas summer. The mechanic fix the air conditioner by changing the air conditioner belt and an added bonus they change the alternator belt (sarcasm).
Couple of days later the car start making a really awful screeching sound, i take it back to them and they say that my bumper is not strong enough for the belt, so they say that the bumper needs to be changed at an estimated charge of 300 dollars.
The air conditioner belt that they changed, snapped today in the highway, only after one week of them changing it.
So i'm 177 dollars down, with no AC and with a car that makes an awful screeching noise which makes people turn heads a block away. What would you advice me, are this mechanics being extremely negligent and don't want to own up to their incompetence or is there any other explanation.
Thanks
Car air connditioner repair?
Yes that place is definitely cheating you. The screeching sound is probably the belt and they didn't tighten it. So that they could make you think something else is wrong with it. As far as your bumper not being able to handle the belt is absolutely ridiculous, maybe they loosened it. Usually when you have warm air blowing in is a result of low on freon or a bad a/c compressor. You need to try to go back and get some of your money refunded. The belt broke and that could of caused you to have a serious accident, your very lucky. If it doesn't work out you have your attorney general in your city and of course you have the better business bureau to file a complaint too. I have a friend that is a owner of an auto repair shop and the best way to get satisfaction done is to file a complaint with better business bureau. Best of luck!
Couple of days later the car start making a really awful screeching sound, i take it back to them and they say that my bumper is not strong enough for the belt, so they say that the bumper needs to be changed at an estimated charge of 300 dollars.
The air conditioner belt that they changed, snapped today in the highway, only after one week of them changing it.
So i'm 177 dollars down, with no AC and with a car that makes an awful screeching noise which makes people turn heads a block away. What would you advice me, are this mechanics being extremely negligent and don't want to own up to their incompetence or is there any other explanation.
Thanks
Car air connditioner repair?
Yes that place is definitely cheating you. The screeching sound is probably the belt and they didn't tighten it. So that they could make you think something else is wrong with it. As far as your bumper not being able to handle the belt is absolutely ridiculous, maybe they loosened it. Usually when you have warm air blowing in is a result of low on freon or a bad a/c compressor. You need to try to go back and get some of your money refunded. The belt broke and that could of caused you to have a serious accident, your very lucky. If it doesn't work out you have your attorney general in your city and of course you have the better business bureau to file a complaint too. I have a friend that is a owner of an auto repair shop and the best way to get satisfaction done is to file a complaint with better business bureau. Best of luck!
I have bmw 325is sedan 1995 model.engine broke so mechanic put in used 1995 525i engine which he said is ok.
alternator was replaced with a refurbished 325is and the alternator belt changed.new belt began to wear out within minutes after installing.took it to mechanic,relpaced belt.after 60 miles noticed belt edge had cut away.mechanic concluded the alternator was the problem(may be slightly short in length).
Help me find a solution
I have bmw 325is sedan 1995 model.engine broke so mechanic put in used 1995 525i engine which he said is ok.
Sounds to me like it has the wrong pulley. But looking at the part numbers, they are identical. See if you can get a pulley for the 525 and see if there is a difference. Also does the belt look like it is sitting at an angle? It should be perfectly straight from the crank pulley to the alternator pulley. Any side tension will wear it out just as you have said.
I have bmw 325is sedan 1995 model.engine broke so mechanic put in used 1995 525i engine which he said is ok.
Without seeing the car it is hard to make a conclusion. Chances are you might need a 525 alternator, or just simple adjustment of the pulley, another possibility is that the pulley on the car might be bent, check the number of lines from the belt and the pulley. There should be no problem from the engine because it is the same engine 2.5 liters. Whatever the reason, its not your problem, the mechanic should know and take care of it, unless hes a friend doing you a favor.
Help me find a solution
I have bmw 325is sedan 1995 model.engine broke so mechanic put in used 1995 525i engine which he said is ok.
Sounds to me like it has the wrong pulley. But looking at the part numbers, they are identical. See if you can get a pulley for the 525 and see if there is a difference. Also does the belt look like it is sitting at an angle? It should be perfectly straight from the crank pulley to the alternator pulley. Any side tension will wear it out just as you have said.
I have bmw 325is sedan 1995 model.engine broke so mechanic put in used 1995 525i engine which he said is ok.
Without seeing the car it is hard to make a conclusion. Chances are you might need a 525 alternator, or just simple adjustment of the pulley, another possibility is that the pulley on the car might be bent, check the number of lines from the belt and the pulley. There should be no problem from the engine because it is the same engine 2.5 liters. Whatever the reason, its not your problem, the mechanic should know and take care of it, unless hes a friend doing you a favor.
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
I just changed the alternator in my 1998 chevy cavalier. I released the tension on the belt to get it off of the alternator and now I can't get it back over the new one. Any suggestions?
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
if you're releasing the tensioner and it's that hard sounds like you're not routing it quite right. check again to make sure you're putting on right. i usually put it around all the lower pulleys and the tensioner then remove the tension and put it over one of the easier to reach pulleys at the top last. a lot of people assume for some reason that the tensioner should be last and they take forever trying to get it on
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
Try routing it over the bigger pulleys first and then the smallest pulley as you release the tension from the tensioner
u have to release the tensioner to put it on also
it is a pain in the but. i had to take mine to a shop because it was being stupid and couldn't get it back. one of those things they make only for a body shopa nd you have to pay 200 bucks and it takes 2 secs
MAYBE YOUR WAISTLINE IS TO BIG.. TRY A LARGER SIZE,,,,
I would take it to the pros at autozone.
does the knew alternator have the same size pully on it as the old one. I worked at a parts shop and a lot of alternators that were bought from the store were the right ones, but the pulleys were different size. but everything else on them were the same. it was wierd, but the pulleys are easy to change, the nut on the pulley just unscrews counter clockwise, its best to do it with a impact wrench and have somebody hold the pulley while you unscrew it.
Check to see if the belt is the same length as the one which came off. Secondly, check to see if the alternator pulley is the same size or is it different. And lastly, if you released the tension to get the belt off, you'll need to do the same thing to get the new one back on.
if it will help you, you can put some grey tape over each puley and when you get to the tensioner just give it a pull with the appropriate tool, and thats it folks.software african american hair
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
if you're releasing the tensioner and it's that hard sounds like you're not routing it quite right. check again to make sure you're putting on right. i usually put it around all the lower pulleys and the tensioner then remove the tension and put it over one of the easier to reach pulleys at the top last. a lot of people assume for some reason that the tensioner should be last and they take forever trying to get it on
I can't get my drive belt back on!?
Try routing it over the bigger pulleys first and then the smallest pulley as you release the tension from the tensioner
u have to release the tensioner to put it on also
it is a pain in the but. i had to take mine to a shop because it was being stupid and couldn't get it back. one of those things they make only for a body shopa nd you have to pay 200 bucks and it takes 2 secs
MAYBE YOUR WAISTLINE IS TO BIG.. TRY A LARGER SIZE,,,,
I would take it to the pros at autozone.
does the knew alternator have the same size pully on it as the old one. I worked at a parts shop and a lot of alternators that were bought from the store were the right ones, but the pulleys were different size. but everything else on them were the same. it was wierd, but the pulleys are easy to change, the nut on the pulley just unscrews counter clockwise, its best to do it with a impact wrench and have somebody hold the pulley while you unscrew it.
Check to see if the belt is the same length as the one which came off. Secondly, check to see if the alternator pulley is the same size or is it different. And lastly, if you released the tension to get the belt off, you'll need to do the same thing to get the new one back on.
if it will help you, you can put some grey tape over each puley and when you get to the tensioner just give it a pull with the appropriate tool, and thats it folks.
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
I just bought a set of lowering springs for my miata, im not sure if its tough and what tools would i need?. ive done basic stuff on my car like oil changes, spark plugs, alternator, timing belt, etc. but ive never messed with the suspension.
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
You will need a set of jack stands, 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm and 17 mm wrenches and sockets, also a spring compressor. Parts of the suspension have to be undone to get the spring/shock assembly out to where you can work on replacing them.
I would suggest getting new shocks while you are at it. I use Gabriel's on my Miata. They are a lower end performance shock. Better yet just go ahead and get the parts to make the shocks springs adjustable in height. That way all you have to do is to set up the new assemblies, pull the old ones and install the replacements.
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
Not a very difficult task...You may need a 'spring clamp' to compress the springs to get them in...i just used a vice and lots of rope (dodgy way) but it worked
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
You will need a set of jack stands, 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm and 17 mm wrenches and sockets, also a spring compressor. Parts of the suspension have to be undone to get the spring/shock assembly out to where you can work on replacing them.
I would suggest getting new shocks while you are at it. I use Gabriel's on my Miata. They are a lower end performance shock. Better yet just go ahead and get the parts to make the shocks springs adjustable in height. That way all you have to do is to set up the new assemblies, pull the old ones and install the replacements.
Is it tough to isntall lowering springs on a '91 miata?
Not a very difficult task...You may need a 'spring clamp' to compress the springs to get them in...i just used a vice and lots of rope (dodgy way) but it worked
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
I need to change my alternator in my jeep and i need to find out where the tensioner is located, i need to loosen this belt before i can get the alternator off. all i need to know is where its at and how i will definitely know that's it when i find it. Thanks!
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
It's the 3%26quot;dia pulley just under the dipstick handle, 2%26quot; to right of the battery. Put a ~1/2%26quot; socket on it and turn clockwise and the pulley will move to the right an inch.
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
the tensioner pully is the only pully that has a flat serface
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
It's the 3%26quot;dia pulley just under the dipstick handle, 2%26quot; to right of the battery. Put a ~1/2%26quot; socket on it and turn clockwise and the pulley will move to the right an inch.
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alternator?
the tensioner pully is the only pully that has a flat serface
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
I noticed my engine started to rattle before it started overheating. I thought it could be one of the common problems associated with older engines (screws become loose/stripped and need to be replaced)
Then, my car started to overheat. I thought it may be a radiator leak so I used some sealant and 2 days later it overheated again and I refilled it with coolant this time checking it after every drive. No noticeable instant leaks and every time i checked it coolant was at a good level.
This morning while pulling into my work parking lot I notice the temp gauge climbing so I put the car in park and let it cool down. I filled my car with coolant and watched it again for a leak and nothing happened.
While driving today (about 8 hours later) I decided to pull over pop the hood and see if I could pinpoint the leak after I've been driving and the car was idle. I noticed water pouring out directly under the engine. I could clearly see it from the small space between the engine and the radiator from the top view.
Could it be my water pump has gone bad? I just changed my started a few weeks ago and I wonder if it was damaged when it was temporarily removed. Or if it was just a coincidence..
Specs:
2001 V6 Mazda 626
190k miles
Alternator belt changed, timing belt changed (both at 120k)
Starter changed (190k miles)
Alternator changed (185k)
Tune up at 130k.
Known issues:
CV Joints needs replaced
Oil leak that seems to be fixed
Front brakes need to be changed.
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
could be the waterpump leaking, there is a weep hole at the bottom of the pump that will leak if it's bad, sometimes hard to see with the belt pulley in place.
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
From what you are saying it sounds like the water pump has to be replaced.
It could be a few different things:
1) your thermostat is stuck closed causing your engine to over heat and the coolant flowing out your car is from the overflow tank.
2) you blew a head gasket and its leaking between the head and the cylinder
3) you're leaking from the water pump
It certainly could be your waterpump, but it could also be a hose or gasket. The best bet is to bring it to a shop. They will pump pressure into the cooling system which will show the leak without just throwing parts at it. Should cost aroung $75 or so. Will save you money in the long run.
Then, my car started to overheat. I thought it may be a radiator leak so I used some sealant and 2 days later it overheated again and I refilled it with coolant this time checking it after every drive. No noticeable instant leaks and every time i checked it coolant was at a good level.
This morning while pulling into my work parking lot I notice the temp gauge climbing so I put the car in park and let it cool down. I filled my car with coolant and watched it again for a leak and nothing happened.
While driving today (about 8 hours later) I decided to pull over pop the hood and see if I could pinpoint the leak after I've been driving and the car was idle. I noticed water pouring out directly under the engine. I could clearly see it from the small space between the engine and the radiator from the top view.
Could it be my water pump has gone bad? I just changed my started a few weeks ago and I wonder if it was damaged when it was temporarily removed. Or if it was just a coincidence..
Specs:
2001 V6 Mazda 626
190k miles
Alternator belt changed, timing belt changed (both at 120k)
Starter changed (190k miles)
Alternator changed (185k)
Tune up at 130k.
Known issues:
CV Joints needs replaced
Oil leak that seems to be fixed
Front brakes need to be changed.
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
could be the waterpump leaking, there is a weep hole at the bottom of the pump that will leak if it's bad, sometimes hard to see with the belt pulley in place.
Do I have a Water Pump Problem?
From what you are saying it sounds like the water pump has to be replaced.
It could be a few different things:
1) your thermostat is stuck closed causing your engine to over heat and the coolant flowing out your car is from the overflow tank.
2) you blew a head gasket and its leaking between the head and the cylinder
3) you're leaking from the water pump
It certainly could be your waterpump, but it could also be a hose or gasket. The best bet is to bring it to a shop. They will pump pressure into the cooling system which will show the leak without just throwing parts at it. Should cost aroung $75 or so. Will save you money in the long run.
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
I looked around and I dont know how to release the tension of the belt. I see 2 bolts that hold the alternator in place thinking if i were to loosen the 1 at the pivoting point of alternator and removing 1 in the back I could rotate it. but alternator wont rotate.
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
hey!!!!dude
You don't need to do all that.
put a socket in the center nut of the belt tensioner and push it counter clock wise.
that gonna loose the belt.
remove the old one and put the new one.
P.S. You don't have the socket?no problemo, can You see that little square %26quot;hole%26quot; 3/8 by 3/8. put the 3/8 drive ratchet in it
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
are u sure that it is the right belt for the what you want
check with yahoo for what you want
take care
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
hey!!!!dude
You don't need to do all that.
put a socket in the center nut of the belt tensioner and push it counter clock wise.
that gonna loose the belt.
remove the old one and put the new one.
P.S. You don't have the socket?no problemo, can You see that little square %26quot;hole%26quot; 3/8 by 3/8. put the 3/8 drive ratchet in it
How do I change a 2000 Alero Serpentine belt?
are u sure that it is the right belt for the what you want
check with yahoo for what you want
take care
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
I have found the tensioner but need to know how to loosen it in order to remove the belt. There is the large bolt that is in the center of the pulley itself and then there is an inset bolt (smaller) on a piece behind the pulley (that has the belt wrapped around it).
Trying to replace the alternator.
Any information, pics or anything would be VERY helpful.
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
Look at the arm that the polley is fastened to. You should find a 3/8%26quot; square hole. Put you 3/8%26quot; drive ratchet in this hole and pull in the direction away from the belt. It is spring loaded. While holding tensioner released, slip belt off the alternator pulley, then release the tensioner.
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
most of them you just use a 3/8 drive ratchet without any socket. you should see a square hole for it to fit in.
DON'T LOOSEN THE MAIN BELT IDLER or TENSIONER!!!!!!
Disconnect the negative bat. terminal.
At the alternator.
Push both little tabs on the molex connectors and disconnect them both.
Loosen the alternator pivot bolts and loosten the adjustment arm bolts.
Pivot the alternator up to remove tension on the belt.
Remove the belt from the alternator.
Disconnect the pinch and pivot bolts and remove the alternator.
Installation is reversed.
You must adjust the tension on the belt with a drivebelt tension gauge. Some will say you don't but it's a sepinteen belt and must be tensioned correctlyprogramming best for cleaning bed sheets
Trying to replace the alternator.
Any information, pics or anything would be VERY helpful.
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
Look at the arm that the polley is fastened to. You should find a 3/8%26quot; square hole. Put you 3/8%26quot; drive ratchet in this hole and pull in the direction away from the belt. It is spring loaded. While holding tensioner released, slip belt off the alternator pulley, then release the tensioner.
Change drive belt on 1998 Ford Ranger?
most of them you just use a 3/8 drive ratchet without any socket. you should see a square hole for it to fit in.
DON'T LOOSEN THE MAIN BELT IDLER or TENSIONER!!!!!!
Disconnect the negative bat. terminal.
At the alternator.
Push both little tabs on the molex connectors and disconnect them both.
Loosen the alternator pivot bolts and loosten the adjustment arm bolts.
Pivot the alternator up to remove tension on the belt.
Remove the belt from the alternator.
Disconnect the pinch and pivot bolts and remove the alternator.
Installation is reversed.
You must adjust the tension on the belt with a drivebelt tension gauge. Some will say you don't but it's a sepinteen belt and must be tensioned correctly
Friday, September 23, 2011
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
My fried changed the alternator, because it was not charging, now when I start it ,I believe the belts squeaks. If so how do I stop it????
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The belts are not tensioned correctly.
They are probably too loose.
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The alternator maybe on too tight. Or the belt is worn= Replace the belt.
the belt tension it too losse tighten it!
the belt squeaks becouse it is to loose. ckeck the belt and replace it if it has any shiney spots or if it is glazed otherwise
it is most likely loose, espically if it didn't make noise before
the alternator was changed
if they are then you didnt do it right is not tight enough or not on right should recheck belts and or alignment of belts there is a chance the new one has a bad bearing but more likely its loose should only have little movement in belts
All the 5 answers are right. Here's a little tip......if your alt belt is not changed, and you are not about to do the readjustments, use a stick of candle and rub the wax on the belt %26quot;V%26quot; sides. that should stop the squeaks
get a bar of soap and touch the bottom of the belt with it while the engine is running, I use Irish Spring, seems to work the best, only thing is I it failed the emission test afterward because my leprechauns were too high
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The belts are not tensioned correctly.
They are probably too loose.
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The alternator maybe on too tight. Or the belt is worn= Replace the belt.
the belt tension it too losse tighten it!
the belt squeaks becouse it is to loose. ckeck the belt and replace it if it has any shiney spots or if it is glazed otherwise
it is most likely loose, espically if it didn't make noise before
the alternator was changed
if they are then you didnt do it right is not tight enough or not on right should recheck belts and or alignment of belts there is a chance the new one has a bad bearing but more likely its loose should only have little movement in belts
All the 5 answers are right. Here's a little tip......if your alt belt is not changed, and you are not about to do the readjustments, use a stick of candle and rub the wax on the belt %26quot;V%26quot; sides. that should stop the squeaks
get a bar of soap and touch the bottom of the belt with it while the engine is running, I use Irish Spring, seems to work the best, only thing is I it failed the emission test afterward because my leprechauns were too high
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
I had the alternator replaced TWICE yesterday and still having problems....
I had replaced it only because it was making one heck of a noise.. (bearings went out)... So I took it in and had it replaced today with a 80 amp BOSH alternator. It was charging and checked out ok so I drove home. I made a quick stop (about 20 min) at the store and when I came out and started it up, the Battery light was on..
So I took it back and they changed out the Alternator with another new one, tested it, yep charging.. So i went home again.. came out tonight about 5 hr later, and the Battery light is on again... It's not charging...
What is going on...?? The battery is 2 years old and the only reason for changing the Alternator was because of the bearing noise... Belt is new, Idler pulley is new, engine is quiet at idle.
Any ideas..?? I am stuck until Monday unless I can fix this...
BMW '96 328i e36
Thank you
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
Could be damage to battery because of the prior failing alternator/voltage regulator.
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
A bad batch of alternators OR a defective battery.
Every year 1.6 million alternators are replaced when it was the battery that was the problem.
Infrequently - a battery cannot be charged.
Quick test: Connect a portable,automatic battery charger, (one with a meter) and watch the meter. If it is set on 8 amps and does not rise to a 4 to 8 amp charging rate or does not show ANY charging rate - then look at a defective battery.
Only if the battery has a full charge of 12.66V - OR - is defective - will the charger not charge.
First open up the battery cap, and check if water is in the cells.
The battery could be the problem.
Next check your belts, are they tight?
I'd go with the battery and have the battery checked out.
I am guessing those were aftermarket alternators rather than new OEM from the dealer. Your experience is why I gave up on aftermarket alternators about 15 years ago. The very high failure rate in the first day of service was too much to stand. From your description it is hard to blame the problem on anything except the alternator - put one in, it works for a while.
At this point a battery charger may be your best friend. Modern chargers are much kinder to batteries than earlier ones and $50 or so can get you a beauty if you don't have one now. I had to replace my old clunker and I am very happy with my Schumacher SE-5212A. As long as you are just driving in town and not running the fan on high with headlights the battery should keep you going.
The alternative is another of what you have... unless they still have your original. At least it worked.
I had replaced it only because it was making one heck of a noise.. (bearings went out)... So I took it in and had it replaced today with a 80 amp BOSH alternator. It was charging and checked out ok so I drove home. I made a quick stop (about 20 min) at the store and when I came out and started it up, the Battery light was on..
So I took it back and they changed out the Alternator with another new one, tested it, yep charging.. So i went home again.. came out tonight about 5 hr later, and the Battery light is on again... It's not charging...
What is going on...?? The battery is 2 years old and the only reason for changing the Alternator was because of the bearing noise... Belt is new, Idler pulley is new, engine is quiet at idle.
Any ideas..?? I am stuck until Monday unless I can fix this...
BMW '96 328i e36
Thank you
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
Could be damage to battery because of the prior failing alternator/voltage regulator.
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
A bad batch of alternators OR a defective battery.
Every year 1.6 million alternators are replaced when it was the battery that was the problem.
Infrequently - a battery cannot be charged.
Quick test: Connect a portable,automatic battery charger, (one with a meter) and watch the meter. If it is set on 8 amps and does not rise to a 4 to 8 amp charging rate or does not show ANY charging rate - then look at a defective battery.
Only if the battery has a full charge of 12.66V - OR - is defective - will the charger not charge.
First open up the battery cap, and check if water is in the cells.
The battery could be the problem.
Next check your belts, are they tight?
I'd go with the battery and have the battery checked out.
I am guessing those were aftermarket alternators rather than new OEM from the dealer. Your experience is why I gave up on aftermarket alternators about 15 years ago. The very high failure rate in the first day of service was too much to stand. From your description it is hard to blame the problem on anything except the alternator - put one in, it works for a while.
At this point a battery charger may be your best friend. Modern chargers are much kinder to batteries than earlier ones and $50 or so can get you a beauty if you don't have one now. I had to replace my old clunker and I am very happy with my Schumacher SE-5212A. As long as you are just driving in town and not running the fan on high with headlights the battery should keep you going.
The alternative is another of what you have... unless they still have your original. At least it worked.
2000 Mazda Protege dies; new alt, alt belt, batt, help...?
I went to get an oil change, and discovered a bevy of things wrong with my car. Replaced alternator, alternator belt, battery. Now it turns on, but only for a moment then the check engine and battery light comes on. Able to jump start it, but doesn't hold a charge. Auto Zone says the alternator is good, so that the confusing part. Hmmm... any help is appreciated!
2000 Mazda Protege dies; new alt, alt belt, batt, help...?
check the alt belt make sure its not slipping, check battery connections, check alt connections. have the battery tested!
2000 Mazda Protege dies; new alt, alt belt, batt, help...?
check the alt belt make sure its not slipping, check battery connections, check alt connections. have the battery tested!
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
In this vehicle, i had to change muffler, alternator, timing belt 2 times, and the battery. Also Transmission and tires. What more maintenance problem can i expect? I was wondering if i should sell this and get a new car. The mechanic says, after the first timing belt change, need to replace timing belt every 25K miles. This vehicle also makes some noise, while starting from idle, on an uphill ramp. Only thing i feel great about this vehicle is the mileage - i get around 35 MPG. (But my wife usually drives it and always goes around 60 miles on a highway)
Heard there are some toyotas which have 336K miles, and still on the road. Is it true or just an advertisement? Can i expect to keep a honda civic on the road for 200K miles?
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
KEEP IT!
1. no car payment (save more than $2500/yr)
2. liability only insurance (save maybe $500/yr or more)
3. great CRU rating, and all major parts replaced (PRICELESS!)
You can afford to spend $3000 a year on maintenance with this vehicle, and still come out ahead. That is very unlikely, considering the replacements you have already made.
Ignore the %26quot;every 25000 miles%26quot;, he is making annual vacation plans at your expense. Drive it until it NEEDS a new timing belt, which should be almost 100,000 miles.
People dont realize how much money a new vehicle really costs, including payment, interest, full coverage insurance.
Keep this baby, and drive it until it wont go anymore.
Oh, and find an honest mechanic.
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
keep the regular maintance up like changing oil and other things and i bet you will get an extra 200,000miles out of it because i know alot of friends that have those cars a they have way over 200,000 miles on them so as the old saying go's (take care of the car and it will take care of you)
Ill buy it !!!
Dude, you got hosed somehow. A Honda that is well-maintained should go 200,000 miles with hardly any major problems.
If your mechanic is telling you to change the timing belt every 25,000 miles, what you need is a new mechanic! 75K is more like it. Why on earth you would need 2 in 100K, is a mystery.
If you had to replace the tranny, either it was a lemon or was abused.
Sure, there are Toyotas (and Hondas) with 300K+ miles. But they are probably money pits by now. That's pushing it.
Good luck!
Heard there are some toyotas which have 336K miles, and still on the road. Is it true or just an advertisement? Can i expect to keep a honda civic on the road for 200K miles?
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
KEEP IT!
1. no car payment (save more than $2500/yr)
2. liability only insurance (save maybe $500/yr or more)
3. great CRU rating, and all major parts replaced (PRICELESS!)
You can afford to spend $3000 a year on maintenance with this vehicle, and still come out ahead. That is very unlikely, considering the replacements you have already made.
Ignore the %26quot;every 25000 miles%26quot;, he is making annual vacation plans at your expense. Drive it until it NEEDS a new timing belt, which should be almost 100,000 miles.
People dont realize how much money a new vehicle really costs, including payment, interest, full coverage insurance.
Keep this baby, and drive it until it wont go anymore.
Oh, and find an honest mechanic.
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
keep the regular maintance up like changing oil and other things and i bet you will get an extra 200,000miles out of it because i know alot of friends that have those cars a they have way over 200,000 miles on them so as the old saying go's (take care of the car and it will take care of you)
Ill buy it !!!
Dude, you got hosed somehow. A Honda that is well-maintained should go 200,000 miles with hardly any major problems.
If your mechanic is telling you to change the timing belt every 25,000 miles, what you need is a new mechanic! 75K is more like it. Why on earth you would need 2 in 100K, is a mystery.
If you had to replace the tranny, either it was a lemon or was abused.
Sure, there are Toyotas (and Hondas) with 300K+ miles. But they are probably money pits by now. That's pushing it.
Good luck!
What is wrong with my car?
i've had my timing belt changed alternator and my battery is good but my car won't crank it's not the starter because when i try and start it, it whines up, but it won't crank and suggestions
What is wrong with my car?
Is there gas in the Car?? :-) Just kidding
What is wrong with my car?
Did you check the plugs and wires? Is there fuel getting to the engine? Does the fuel pump work?
Starter whines, but no crank sounds like your starter gear isn't engaging. Either take the starter off and clean it up a bit by the gear or replace it.
Temporary you can get a wrench or a hammer and knock on the starter so that the dirt falls out a bit. But what you really need to do is have the starter checked or changed.
If you had timing belt recently changed, perhaps the mechanic did not tighten the distributor resulting in it going way out of time again, as the case with my own honda,lol. Lets hope this is why.
If the starter is whirring, but the engine is notturning, it sounds like the starter is not engaging with the teeth of the flywheel, or the torque converter ring gear.
Spark Plugs Check them out
and Make sure the starter is good just make sure... i know you said it's good but those things have a way of going out
and if it's not those have someone turn your engine manually or by hand
tell them to lock on the gear shaft of should be under your right side driver side i mean
and if it turns then that's good it's not your pistons blocks but it's bad cause you still don't know whats wrong so have someone run a diagnostics on it and the computer should read it OK i hope this helps good luck
it whines up? you meen it sounds like it's spinning really fast but the motor isn't turning at all?
If that's the case your solenoid is out. The solenoid pushes the starter gear out mates it with the flywheel and turns the motor to start the engine. Solenoids mount on the starter and can be replaced separately or you can buy a whole new starter which will have the solenoid already attached.
If by %26quot;crank%26quot; you mean start or start to start then it could be many things. You'll have to be more specific.
That can be a lot of things. Fuel pump, ignition switch, spark plugs, spark plug cables....etc.... I would try changing the spark plugs if it hasnt been done in a long time.
WAIT..stop trying to start you car.. This just tipped me off.. You said. You just had your timing belt replaced. Whoever did it, f'd it up.. b/c the first thing that happens when your timing belt goes, is you try to crank your car up, and it doesn't start, it makes that whirring sound...If you keep trying to start your car you will f up your engine.. Whoever installed that timing belt need to look at it again..Because i bet you they f'd up the installation.
ok... if the starter won't engage the flywheel (the whining sound) it will have to be one of the following
1) Bad starter solenoid ... it is not throwing the starter gear out enough
2) Weak battery not enough power to throw out the gear
3) Badly installed starter or broken parts (the gear throws out but never reaches the flywheel
4) Bad flywheel ( all the teeth are worn or missing and your starter just spins around but can not grab the flywheel
5) bad electrical connections (same result as a weak battery).
These all require mechanical solutions and lots of cleanup afterwards. You prob. need to take it to a garage unless you either know how to do this or have a friend / parent who can.
Sorry... and good luck
Starter solenoid not engaging starter gear to flywheel
Cold starts in the morning weakens battery tremendously...make sure the amp's are high enough to crank or turn the engine. Check to see is any corrosion is 'chalky' white on the the negative (-) and positive (+ ) terminals.
If that's not the problem...take it to Firestone or any approve ASE certified mechanics...do not take it to the dealership...unless you have a phat bank account
fireing oder coud be wrong check 1342 1432 if not timing could be 360 out if not run since job
the gas smell comes from each time you turn the key off and then back on again it kicks the full pump on. since the car is not starting it's not burning th fuel and it is flooding.
1. fule pump
2.engine is soak up with water
3.gas is not in tank
4.gas cannot get into engine enought
but i know is not 2 or 3 is have to do with 1 or 4
the clutchs in the starter motor and worn out new starter will fix the problemexcel vc
What is wrong with my car?
Is there gas in the Car?? :-) Just kidding
What is wrong with my car?
Did you check the plugs and wires? Is there fuel getting to the engine? Does the fuel pump work?
Starter whines, but no crank sounds like your starter gear isn't engaging. Either take the starter off and clean it up a bit by the gear or replace it.
Temporary you can get a wrench or a hammer and knock on the starter so that the dirt falls out a bit. But what you really need to do is have the starter checked or changed.
If you had timing belt recently changed, perhaps the mechanic did not tighten the distributor resulting in it going way out of time again, as the case with my own honda,lol. Lets hope this is why.
If the starter is whirring, but the engine is notturning, it sounds like the starter is not engaging with the teeth of the flywheel, or the torque converter ring gear.
Spark Plugs Check them out
and Make sure the starter is good just make sure... i know you said it's good but those things have a way of going out
and if it's not those have someone turn your engine manually or by hand
tell them to lock on the gear shaft of should be under your right side driver side i mean
and if it turns then that's good it's not your pistons blocks but it's bad cause you still don't know whats wrong so have someone run a diagnostics on it and the computer should read it OK i hope this helps good luck
it whines up? you meen it sounds like it's spinning really fast but the motor isn't turning at all?
If that's the case your solenoid is out. The solenoid pushes the starter gear out mates it with the flywheel and turns the motor to start the engine. Solenoids mount on the starter and can be replaced separately or you can buy a whole new starter which will have the solenoid already attached.
If by %26quot;crank%26quot; you mean start or start to start then it could be many things. You'll have to be more specific.
That can be a lot of things. Fuel pump, ignition switch, spark plugs, spark plug cables....etc.... I would try changing the spark plugs if it hasnt been done in a long time.
WAIT..stop trying to start you car.. This just tipped me off.. You said. You just had your timing belt replaced. Whoever did it, f'd it up.. b/c the first thing that happens when your timing belt goes, is you try to crank your car up, and it doesn't start, it makes that whirring sound...If you keep trying to start your car you will f up your engine.. Whoever installed that timing belt need to look at it again..Because i bet you they f'd up the installation.
ok... if the starter won't engage the flywheel (the whining sound) it will have to be one of the following
1) Bad starter solenoid ... it is not throwing the starter gear out enough
2) Weak battery not enough power to throw out the gear
3) Badly installed starter or broken parts (the gear throws out but never reaches the flywheel
4) Bad flywheel ( all the teeth are worn or missing and your starter just spins around but can not grab the flywheel
5) bad electrical connections (same result as a weak battery).
These all require mechanical solutions and lots of cleanup afterwards. You prob. need to take it to a garage unless you either know how to do this or have a friend / parent who can.
Sorry... and good luck
Starter solenoid not engaging starter gear to flywheel
Cold starts in the morning weakens battery tremendously...make sure the amp's are high enough to crank or turn the engine. Check to see is any corrosion is 'chalky' white on the the negative (-) and positive (+ ) terminals.
If that's not the problem...take it to Firestone or any approve ASE certified mechanics...do not take it to the dealership...unless you have a phat bank account
fireing oder coud be wrong check 1342 1432 if not timing could be 360 out if not run since job
the gas smell comes from each time you turn the key off and then back on again it kicks the full pump on. since the car is not starting it's not burning th fuel and it is flooding.
1. fule pump
2.engine is soak up with water
3.gas is not in tank
4.gas cannot get into engine enought
but i know is not 2 or 3 is have to do with 1 or 4
the clutchs in the starter motor and worn out new starter will fix the problem
My wife's Eclipse needs a new alternator.?
I need to replace my wife's alternator on a 99 Eclipse 2.0L non-turbo. I've changed alternators on American cars before, but the Eclipse is confusing. I've pulled off the plate and looked at the belt and I can't figure out the best way to take it off. To make matters worse, it's only accessible from under the car. I need to know how to do it asap!
My wife's Eclipse needs a new alternator.?
put the car on ramps makes it a lot easier
My wife's Eclipse needs a new alternator.?
put the car on ramps makes it a lot easier
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
I have done 94000 kms and am now thinking about changing my cambelt and water pump as I am unsure if the previous owner ever changed. Looking on the internet, it seems most people say it should be changed about every 60000kms with waterpump aswell.
I have asked at my local BOSCH garage however and they said my belt should usually be changed approximately every 100000kms and that on my car a change of waterpump shouldn麓t be necessary unless I really wanted him to change it. He also suggested he change the alternator belt at the same time.
Your thoughts please?
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
yes 100 thound miles is right an change water pump to because labor is onley an extra 1/2 hour if dont next year when water pump goes bad have to pay same labor totalfor whole job like 4or5 hours just for water pump it is recomened any by book
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
The dealer seems to have it just right to me
Alternator belt? NO NO NO!
There is one belt driven by the Crankshaft driving the camshaft alternator water pump p/steering pump and a/c if applicable.
Every 60,000 miles it should be changed, 100,000 miles is recomended for more heavy duty vehicles such as deisels.
Waterpump isnt really nescesarry unless its broken or soon to do so, but if you would rather do it then go for it.
Alternator if not changed at all would be seriously worth the time!
hope this helps!
I have asked at my local BOSCH garage however and they said my belt should usually be changed approximately every 100000kms and that on my car a change of waterpump shouldn麓t be necessary unless I really wanted him to change it. He also suggested he change the alternator belt at the same time.
Your thoughts please?
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
yes 100 thound miles is right an change water pump to because labor is onley an extra 1/2 hour if dont next year when water pump goes bad have to pay same labor totalfor whole job like 4or5 hours just for water pump it is recomened any by book
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
The dealer seems to have it just right to me
Alternator belt? NO NO NO!
There is one belt driven by the Crankshaft driving the camshaft alternator water pump p/steering pump and a/c if applicable.
Every 60,000 miles it should be changed, 100,000 miles is recomended for more heavy duty vehicles such as deisels.
Waterpump isnt really nescesarry unless its broken or soon to do so, but if you would rather do it then go for it.
Alternator if not changed at all would be seriously worth the time!
hope this helps!
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
The alternator has to be changed and a friend said he could do it. But I'm worried that belt might not be installed right and that might damage the engine.
I'm talking about the belt that is outside on the engine, near the fan
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
I drive a Ford Ranger 2000 4x4 6 cyl, 3.0L
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
The timing belt is inside the front cover on the engine.
The altenator belt will not hurt engine.
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
Let your friend do it. It is an easy job. The drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.
Drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.If the belt routing is not still located under the hood local Advance or AutoZone should have a belt routing they can print off.Unless your friend is a complete nimrod it's fairly easy to do.
I'm talking about the belt that is outside on the engine, near the fan
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
I drive a Ford Ranger 2000 4x4 6 cyl, 3.0L
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
The timing belt is inside the front cover on the engine.
The altenator belt will not hurt engine.
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
Let your friend do it. It is an easy job. The drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.
Drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.If the belt routing is not still located under the hood local Advance or AutoZone should have a belt routing they can print off.Unless your friend is a complete nimrod it's fairly easy to do.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
My mum has put money into it so far. It seemed to be in good condition when she bought it. Soon after she found out that the air flow %26quot;tube%26quot; had holes in it. She took it back to the dealership and said it was fixed. Our mechanic had to fix it. We were told that we had a warranty for only the engine. So, certain things we could not fix with them. My mum has had to put more into it then what it is worth. She has had her brakes done, air bag fixed in the passenger's side(it was sitting behind the glove box/it was also repacked wrong), tune up (wrong spark plugs was put into it), oil change, alternator belt, and now possibly the solenoid. Like I said, it was in %26quot;good%26quot; condition we bought it, or so we thought. It's in %26quot;fair%26quot; condition. We have had the suv for a little over a year. My mum is also over paying. She's paying them eventually almost $8,000 when even in great condition, fair. That's the excellent value. The dealership has gone out of business and no way to talk to them.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
%26quot;Lemon laws%26quot; vary from state to state. Contact your state's AG to see if her car is covered under your state's law. Some states do cover used cars, but only if there is a warranty still in effect, and only for the warranty items.
One big thing that is VERY strongly advised to anyone buying a used car is to take it to a mechanic OF YOUR CHOICE to have it inspected. If the seller refuses to let you do this, it's a very good sign they are hiding something, and you should not walk away from the deal, but run as fast as you can away from it.
One big thing that stands out with your description: The airbag was repacked wrong. This is a VERY STRONG indication that the car was in an accident. While the wrong spark plugs is an issue, a tune up, oil change, and belts are not covered under lemon laws. They are normal maintenance items.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
The Lemon Laws do not apply at all to used cars. If it was used when your mom bought it, she's stuck with it.
This is hilarious...really.
First, who would you sue if the dealer is out of business? THINK!
Second, lemon laws only apply to NEW cars.
Third, 99% of used cars are sold %26quot;as is%26quot;...meaning you should have had it inspected before you bought it.
Fourth, I've neen around cars a long time and have never heard of an %26quot;air flow tube%26quot;. Overpaying is her fault...no one elses. No one put a gun to her head to make her buy it.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
%26quot;Lemon laws%26quot; vary from state to state. Contact your state's AG to see if her car is covered under your state's law. Some states do cover used cars, but only if there is a warranty still in effect, and only for the warranty items.
One big thing that is VERY strongly advised to anyone buying a used car is to take it to a mechanic OF YOUR CHOICE to have it inspected. If the seller refuses to let you do this, it's a very good sign they are hiding something, and you should not walk away from the deal, but run as fast as you can away from it.
One big thing that stands out with your description: The airbag was repacked wrong. This is a VERY STRONG indication that the car was in an accident. While the wrong spark plugs is an issue, a tune up, oil change, and belts are not covered under lemon laws. They are normal maintenance items.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
The Lemon Laws do not apply at all to used cars. If it was used when your mom bought it, she's stuck with it.
This is hilarious...really.
First, who would you sue if the dealer is out of business? THINK!
Second, lemon laws only apply to NEW cars.
Third, 99% of used cars are sold %26quot;as is%26quot;...meaning you should have had it inspected before you bought it.
Fourth, I've neen around cars a long time and have never heard of an %26quot;air flow tube%26quot;. Overpaying is her fault...no one elses. No one put a gun to her head to make her buy it.
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
I was expecting to find a single serpentine belt with an automatic tensioner pulley. I have changed serpentine belts on many models with no problem. But this Sienna has two belts, not one. One belt drives the power steering pump. The second belt drives the alternator and A/C. I don't see a tensioner pulley on either belt. Do these belts work like old-fashioned V-belts belts where you tension them by loosening something (like the alternator) and then using a pry bar to tighten the belt? I can barely see the power steering pump so it looks pretty tight, I welcome advice from anybody who knows this model. Thanks.
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
loosen the 14mm bolt on top of alternator. loosen 12mm bolt below alternator sitting sideways. adjust belt tension with 10mm bolt running through previous 12mm.
loosen 12mm bolt on top of power steering pump. underneath vehicle loosen a 12mm bolt below p/s pump pull on belt to relieve tension, and pry carefully to increase tension.
a bit of advice when reinstalling belts, the belt tension has to be just so, too tight and you will wreck the bearings in both pump and alt., too loose and the belts will squeal they have to be just right.reliable web hosting identifying rows
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
loosen the 14mm bolt on top of alternator. loosen 12mm bolt below alternator sitting sideways. adjust belt tension with 10mm bolt running through previous 12mm.
loosen 12mm bolt on top of power steering pump. underneath vehicle loosen a 12mm bolt below p/s pump pull on belt to relieve tension, and pry carefully to increase tension.
a bit of advice when reinstalling belts, the belt tension has to be just so, too tight and you will wreck the bearings in both pump and alt., too loose and the belts will squeal they have to be just right.
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