My fried changed the alternator, because it was not charging, now when I start it ,I believe the belts squeaks. If so how do I stop it????
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The belts are not tensioned correctly.
They are probably too loose.
I replaced the alternator . now the belts squeak. what do I do?
The alternator maybe on too tight. Or the belt is worn= Replace the belt.
the belt tension it too losse tighten it!
the belt squeaks becouse it is to loose. ckeck the belt and replace it if it has any shiney spots or if it is glazed otherwise
it is most likely loose, espically if it didn't make noise before
the alternator was changed
if they are then you didnt do it right is not tight enough or not on right should recheck belts and or alignment of belts there is a chance the new one has a bad bearing but more likely its loose should only have little movement in belts
All the 5 answers are right. Here's a little tip......if your alt belt is not changed, and you are not about to do the readjustments, use a stick of candle and rub the wax on the belt %26quot;V%26quot; sides. that should stop the squeaks
get a bar of soap and touch the bottom of the belt with it while the engine is running, I use Irish Spring, seems to work the best, only thing is I it failed the emission test afterward because my leprechauns were too high
Friday, September 23, 2011
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
I had the alternator replaced TWICE yesterday and still having problems....
I had replaced it only because it was making one heck of a noise.. (bearings went out)... So I took it in and had it replaced today with a 80 amp BOSH alternator. It was charging and checked out ok so I drove home. I made a quick stop (about 20 min) at the store and when I came out and started it up, the Battery light was on..
So I took it back and they changed out the Alternator with another new one, tested it, yep charging.. So i went home again.. came out tonight about 5 hr later, and the Battery light is on again... It's not charging...
What is going on...?? The battery is 2 years old and the only reason for changing the Alternator was because of the bearing noise... Belt is new, Idler pulley is new, engine is quiet at idle.
Any ideas..?? I am stuck until Monday unless I can fix this...
BMW '96 328i e36
Thank you
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
Could be damage to battery because of the prior failing alternator/voltage regulator.
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
A bad batch of alternators OR a defective battery.
Every year 1.6 million alternators are replaced when it was the battery that was the problem.
Infrequently - a battery cannot be charged.
Quick test: Connect a portable,automatic battery charger, (one with a meter) and watch the meter. If it is set on 8 amps and does not rise to a 4 to 8 amp charging rate or does not show ANY charging rate - then look at a defective battery.
Only if the battery has a full charge of 12.66V - OR - is defective - will the charger not charge.
First open up the battery cap, and check if water is in the cells.
The battery could be the problem.
Next check your belts, are they tight?
I'd go with the battery and have the battery checked out.
I am guessing those were aftermarket alternators rather than new OEM from the dealer. Your experience is why I gave up on aftermarket alternators about 15 years ago. The very high failure rate in the first day of service was too much to stand. From your description it is hard to blame the problem on anything except the alternator - put one in, it works for a while.
At this point a battery charger may be your best friend. Modern chargers are much kinder to batteries than earlier ones and $50 or so can get you a beauty if you don't have one now. I had to replace my old clunker and I am very happy with my Schumacher SE-5212A. As long as you are just driving in town and not running the fan on high with headlights the battery should keep you going.
The alternative is another of what you have... unless they still have your original. At least it worked.
I had replaced it only because it was making one heck of a noise.. (bearings went out)... So I took it in and had it replaced today with a 80 amp BOSH alternator. It was charging and checked out ok so I drove home. I made a quick stop (about 20 min) at the store and when I came out and started it up, the Battery light was on..
So I took it back and they changed out the Alternator with another new one, tested it, yep charging.. So i went home again.. came out tonight about 5 hr later, and the Battery light is on again... It's not charging...
What is going on...?? The battery is 2 years old and the only reason for changing the Alternator was because of the bearing noise... Belt is new, Idler pulley is new, engine is quiet at idle.
Any ideas..?? I am stuck until Monday unless I can fix this...
BMW '96 328i e36
Thank you
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
Could be damage to battery because of the prior failing alternator/voltage regulator.
Battery light is on after Two alternator changes?
A bad batch of alternators OR a defective battery.
Every year 1.6 million alternators are replaced when it was the battery that was the problem.
Infrequently - a battery cannot be charged.
Quick test: Connect a portable,automatic battery charger, (one with a meter) and watch the meter. If it is set on 8 amps and does not rise to a 4 to 8 amp charging rate or does not show ANY charging rate - then look at a defective battery.
Only if the battery has a full charge of 12.66V - OR - is defective - will the charger not charge.
First open up the battery cap, and check if water is in the cells.
The battery could be the problem.
Next check your belts, are they tight?
I'd go with the battery and have the battery checked out.
I am guessing those were aftermarket alternators rather than new OEM from the dealer. Your experience is why I gave up on aftermarket alternators about 15 years ago. The very high failure rate in the first day of service was too much to stand. From your description it is hard to blame the problem on anything except the alternator - put one in, it works for a while.
At this point a battery charger may be your best friend. Modern chargers are much kinder to batteries than earlier ones and $50 or so can get you a beauty if you don't have one now. I had to replace my old clunker and I am very happy with my Schumacher SE-5212A. As long as you are just driving in town and not running the fan on high with headlights the battery should keep you going.
The alternative is another of what you have... unless they still have your original. At least it worked.
2000 Mazda Protege dies; new alt, alt belt, batt, help...?
I went to get an oil change, and discovered a bevy of things wrong with my car. Replaced alternator, alternator belt, battery. Now it turns on, but only for a moment then the check engine and battery light comes on. Able to jump start it, but doesn't hold a charge. Auto Zone says the alternator is good, so that the confusing part. Hmmm... any help is appreciated!
2000 Mazda Protege dies; new alt, alt belt, batt, help...?
check the alt belt make sure its not slipping, check battery connections, check alt connections. have the battery tested!
2000 Mazda Protege dies; new alt, alt belt, batt, help...?
check the alt belt make sure its not slipping, check battery connections, check alt connections. have the battery tested!
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
In this vehicle, i had to change muffler, alternator, timing belt 2 times, and the battery. Also Transmission and tires. What more maintenance problem can i expect? I was wondering if i should sell this and get a new car. The mechanic says, after the first timing belt change, need to replace timing belt every 25K miles. This vehicle also makes some noise, while starting from idle, on an uphill ramp. Only thing i feel great about this vehicle is the mileage - i get around 35 MPG. (But my wife usually drives it and always goes around 60 miles on a highway)
Heard there are some toyotas which have 336K miles, and still on the road. Is it true or just an advertisement? Can i expect to keep a honda civic on the road for 200K miles?
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
KEEP IT!
1. no car payment (save more than $2500/yr)
2. liability only insurance (save maybe $500/yr or more)
3. great CRU rating, and all major parts replaced (PRICELESS!)
You can afford to spend $3000 a year on maintenance with this vehicle, and still come out ahead. That is very unlikely, considering the replacements you have already made.
Ignore the %26quot;every 25000 miles%26quot;, he is making annual vacation plans at your expense. Drive it until it NEEDS a new timing belt, which should be almost 100,000 miles.
People dont realize how much money a new vehicle really costs, including payment, interest, full coverage insurance.
Keep this baby, and drive it until it wont go anymore.
Oh, and find an honest mechanic.
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
keep the regular maintance up like changing oil and other things and i bet you will get an extra 200,000miles out of it because i know alot of friends that have those cars a they have way over 200,000 miles on them so as the old saying go's (take care of the car and it will take care of you)
Ill buy it !!!
Dude, you got hosed somehow. A Honda that is well-maintained should go 200,000 miles with hardly any major problems.
If your mechanic is telling you to change the timing belt every 25,000 miles, what you need is a new mechanic! 75K is more like it. Why on earth you would need 2 in 100K, is a mystery.
If you had to replace the tranny, either it was a lemon or was abused.
Sure, there are Toyotas (and Hondas) with 300K+ miles. But they are probably money pits by now. That's pushing it.
Good luck!
Heard there are some toyotas which have 336K miles, and still on the road. Is it true or just an advertisement? Can i expect to keep a honda civic on the road for 200K miles?
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
KEEP IT!
1. no car payment (save more than $2500/yr)
2. liability only insurance (save maybe $500/yr or more)
3. great CRU rating, and all major parts replaced (PRICELESS!)
You can afford to spend $3000 a year on maintenance with this vehicle, and still come out ahead. That is very unlikely, considering the replacements you have already made.
Ignore the %26quot;every 25000 miles%26quot;, he is making annual vacation plans at your expense. Drive it until it NEEDS a new timing belt, which should be almost 100,000 miles.
People dont realize how much money a new vehicle really costs, including payment, interest, full coverage insurance.
Keep this baby, and drive it until it wont go anymore.
Oh, and find an honest mechanic.
Honda civic 98 LX, has 100,000 miles on it. what more problems can i expect?
keep the regular maintance up like changing oil and other things and i bet you will get an extra 200,000miles out of it because i know alot of friends that have those cars a they have way over 200,000 miles on them so as the old saying go's (take care of the car and it will take care of you)
Ill buy it !!!
Dude, you got hosed somehow. A Honda that is well-maintained should go 200,000 miles with hardly any major problems.
If your mechanic is telling you to change the timing belt every 25,000 miles, what you need is a new mechanic! 75K is more like it. Why on earth you would need 2 in 100K, is a mystery.
If you had to replace the tranny, either it was a lemon or was abused.
Sure, there are Toyotas (and Hondas) with 300K+ miles. But they are probably money pits by now. That's pushing it.
Good luck!
What is wrong with my car?
i've had my timing belt changed alternator and my battery is good but my car won't crank it's not the starter because when i try and start it, it whines up, but it won't crank and suggestions
What is wrong with my car?
Is there gas in the Car?? :-) Just kidding
What is wrong with my car?
Did you check the plugs and wires? Is there fuel getting to the engine? Does the fuel pump work?
Starter whines, but no crank sounds like your starter gear isn't engaging. Either take the starter off and clean it up a bit by the gear or replace it.
Temporary you can get a wrench or a hammer and knock on the starter so that the dirt falls out a bit. But what you really need to do is have the starter checked or changed.
If you had timing belt recently changed, perhaps the mechanic did not tighten the distributor resulting in it going way out of time again, as the case with my own honda,lol. Lets hope this is why.
If the starter is whirring, but the engine is notturning, it sounds like the starter is not engaging with the teeth of the flywheel, or the torque converter ring gear.
Spark Plugs Check them out
and Make sure the starter is good just make sure... i know you said it's good but those things have a way of going out
and if it's not those have someone turn your engine manually or by hand
tell them to lock on the gear shaft of should be under your right side driver side i mean
and if it turns then that's good it's not your pistons blocks but it's bad cause you still don't know whats wrong so have someone run a diagnostics on it and the computer should read it OK i hope this helps good luck
it whines up? you meen it sounds like it's spinning really fast but the motor isn't turning at all?
If that's the case your solenoid is out. The solenoid pushes the starter gear out mates it with the flywheel and turns the motor to start the engine. Solenoids mount on the starter and can be replaced separately or you can buy a whole new starter which will have the solenoid already attached.
If by %26quot;crank%26quot; you mean start or start to start then it could be many things. You'll have to be more specific.
That can be a lot of things. Fuel pump, ignition switch, spark plugs, spark plug cables....etc.... I would try changing the spark plugs if it hasnt been done in a long time.
WAIT..stop trying to start you car.. This just tipped me off.. You said. You just had your timing belt replaced. Whoever did it, f'd it up.. b/c the first thing that happens when your timing belt goes, is you try to crank your car up, and it doesn't start, it makes that whirring sound...If you keep trying to start your car you will f up your engine.. Whoever installed that timing belt need to look at it again..Because i bet you they f'd up the installation.
ok... if the starter won't engage the flywheel (the whining sound) it will have to be one of the following
1) Bad starter solenoid ... it is not throwing the starter gear out enough
2) Weak battery not enough power to throw out the gear
3) Badly installed starter or broken parts (the gear throws out but never reaches the flywheel
4) Bad flywheel ( all the teeth are worn or missing and your starter just spins around but can not grab the flywheel
5) bad electrical connections (same result as a weak battery).
These all require mechanical solutions and lots of cleanup afterwards. You prob. need to take it to a garage unless you either know how to do this or have a friend / parent who can.
Sorry... and good luck
Starter solenoid not engaging starter gear to flywheel
Cold starts in the morning weakens battery tremendously...make sure the amp's are high enough to crank or turn the engine. Check to see is any corrosion is 'chalky' white on the the negative (-) and positive (+ ) terminals.
If that's not the problem...take it to Firestone or any approve ASE certified mechanics...do not take it to the dealership...unless you have a phat bank account
fireing oder coud be wrong check 1342 1432 if not timing could be 360 out if not run since job
the gas smell comes from each time you turn the key off and then back on again it kicks the full pump on. since the car is not starting it's not burning th fuel and it is flooding.
1. fule pump
2.engine is soak up with water
3.gas is not in tank
4.gas cannot get into engine enought
but i know is not 2 or 3 is have to do with 1 or 4
the clutchs in the starter motor and worn out new starter will fix the problemexcel vc
What is wrong with my car?
Is there gas in the Car?? :-) Just kidding
What is wrong with my car?
Did you check the plugs and wires? Is there fuel getting to the engine? Does the fuel pump work?
Starter whines, but no crank sounds like your starter gear isn't engaging. Either take the starter off and clean it up a bit by the gear or replace it.
Temporary you can get a wrench or a hammer and knock on the starter so that the dirt falls out a bit. But what you really need to do is have the starter checked or changed.
If you had timing belt recently changed, perhaps the mechanic did not tighten the distributor resulting in it going way out of time again, as the case with my own honda,lol. Lets hope this is why.
If the starter is whirring, but the engine is notturning, it sounds like the starter is not engaging with the teeth of the flywheel, or the torque converter ring gear.
Spark Plugs Check them out
and Make sure the starter is good just make sure... i know you said it's good but those things have a way of going out
and if it's not those have someone turn your engine manually or by hand
tell them to lock on the gear shaft of should be under your right side driver side i mean
and if it turns then that's good it's not your pistons blocks but it's bad cause you still don't know whats wrong so have someone run a diagnostics on it and the computer should read it OK i hope this helps good luck
it whines up? you meen it sounds like it's spinning really fast but the motor isn't turning at all?
If that's the case your solenoid is out. The solenoid pushes the starter gear out mates it with the flywheel and turns the motor to start the engine. Solenoids mount on the starter and can be replaced separately or you can buy a whole new starter which will have the solenoid already attached.
If by %26quot;crank%26quot; you mean start or start to start then it could be many things. You'll have to be more specific.
That can be a lot of things. Fuel pump, ignition switch, spark plugs, spark plug cables....etc.... I would try changing the spark plugs if it hasnt been done in a long time.
WAIT..stop trying to start you car.. This just tipped me off.. You said. You just had your timing belt replaced. Whoever did it, f'd it up.. b/c the first thing that happens when your timing belt goes, is you try to crank your car up, and it doesn't start, it makes that whirring sound...If you keep trying to start your car you will f up your engine.. Whoever installed that timing belt need to look at it again..Because i bet you they f'd up the installation.
ok... if the starter won't engage the flywheel (the whining sound) it will have to be one of the following
1) Bad starter solenoid ... it is not throwing the starter gear out enough
2) Weak battery not enough power to throw out the gear
3) Badly installed starter or broken parts (the gear throws out but never reaches the flywheel
4) Bad flywheel ( all the teeth are worn or missing and your starter just spins around but can not grab the flywheel
5) bad electrical connections (same result as a weak battery).
These all require mechanical solutions and lots of cleanup afterwards. You prob. need to take it to a garage unless you either know how to do this or have a friend / parent who can.
Sorry... and good luck
Starter solenoid not engaging starter gear to flywheel
Cold starts in the morning weakens battery tremendously...make sure the amp's are high enough to crank or turn the engine. Check to see is any corrosion is 'chalky' white on the the negative (-) and positive (+ ) terminals.
If that's not the problem...take it to Firestone or any approve ASE certified mechanics...do not take it to the dealership...unless you have a phat bank account
fireing oder coud be wrong check 1342 1432 if not timing could be 360 out if not run since job
the gas smell comes from each time you turn the key off and then back on again it kicks the full pump on. since the car is not starting it's not burning th fuel and it is flooding.
1. fule pump
2.engine is soak up with water
3.gas is not in tank
4.gas cannot get into engine enought
but i know is not 2 or 3 is have to do with 1 or 4
the clutchs in the starter motor and worn out new starter will fix the problem
My wife's Eclipse needs a new alternator.?
I need to replace my wife's alternator on a 99 Eclipse 2.0L non-turbo. I've changed alternators on American cars before, but the Eclipse is confusing. I've pulled off the plate and looked at the belt and I can't figure out the best way to take it off. To make matters worse, it's only accessible from under the car. I need to know how to do it asap!
My wife's Eclipse needs a new alternator.?
put the car on ramps makes it a lot easier
My wife's Eclipse needs a new alternator.?
put the car on ramps makes it a lot easier
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
I have done 94000 kms and am now thinking about changing my cambelt and water pump as I am unsure if the previous owner ever changed. Looking on the internet, it seems most people say it should be changed about every 60000kms with waterpump aswell.
I have asked at my local BOSCH garage however and they said my belt should usually be changed approximately every 100000kms and that on my car a change of waterpump shouldn麓t be necessary unless I really wanted him to change it. He also suggested he change the alternator belt at the same time.
Your thoughts please?
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
yes 100 thound miles is right an change water pump to because labor is onley an extra 1/2 hour if dont next year when water pump goes bad have to pay same labor totalfor whole job like 4or5 hours just for water pump it is recomened any by book
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
The dealer seems to have it just right to me
Alternator belt? NO NO NO!
There is one belt driven by the Crankshaft driving the camshaft alternator water pump p/steering pump and a/c if applicable.
Every 60,000 miles it should be changed, 100,000 miles is recomended for more heavy duty vehicles such as deisels.
Waterpump isnt really nescesarry unless its broken or soon to do so, but if you would rather do it then go for it.
Alternator if not changed at all would be seriously worth the time!
hope this helps!
I have asked at my local BOSCH garage however and they said my belt should usually be changed approximately every 100000kms and that on my car a change of waterpump shouldn麓t be necessary unless I really wanted him to change it. He also suggested he change the alternator belt at the same time.
Your thoughts please?
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
yes 100 thound miles is right an change water pump to because labor is onley an extra 1/2 hour if dont next year when water pump goes bad have to pay same labor totalfor whole job like 4or5 hours just for water pump it is recomened any by book
Cambelt change - Opel Astra G 1.6 16V (2003)?
The dealer seems to have it just right to me
Alternator belt? NO NO NO!
There is one belt driven by the Crankshaft driving the camshaft alternator water pump p/steering pump and a/c if applicable.
Every 60,000 miles it should be changed, 100,000 miles is recomended for more heavy duty vehicles such as deisels.
Waterpump isnt really nescesarry unless its broken or soon to do so, but if you would rather do it then go for it.
Alternator if not changed at all would be seriously worth the time!
hope this helps!
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
The alternator has to be changed and a friend said he could do it. But I'm worried that belt might not be installed right and that might damage the engine.
I'm talking about the belt that is outside on the engine, near the fan
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
I drive a Ford Ranger 2000 4x4 6 cyl, 3.0L
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
The timing belt is inside the front cover on the engine.
The altenator belt will not hurt engine.
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
Let your friend do it. It is an easy job. The drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.
Drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.If the belt routing is not still located under the hood local Advance or AutoZone should have a belt routing they can print off.Unless your friend is a complete nimrod it's fairly easy to do.
I'm talking about the belt that is outside on the engine, near the fan
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
I drive a Ford Ranger 2000 4x4 6 cyl, 3.0L
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
The timing belt is inside the front cover on the engine.
The altenator belt will not hurt engine.
Is the drive belt the same as the timing belt?
Let your friend do it. It is an easy job. The drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.
Drive belt is not the same as the timing belt.If the belt routing is not still located under the hood local Advance or AutoZone should have a belt routing they can print off.Unless your friend is a complete nimrod it's fairly easy to do.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
My mum has put money into it so far. It seemed to be in good condition when she bought it. Soon after she found out that the air flow %26quot;tube%26quot; had holes in it. She took it back to the dealership and said it was fixed. Our mechanic had to fix it. We were told that we had a warranty for only the engine. So, certain things we could not fix with them. My mum has had to put more into it then what it is worth. She has had her brakes done, air bag fixed in the passenger's side(it was sitting behind the glove box/it was also repacked wrong), tune up (wrong spark plugs was put into it), oil change, alternator belt, and now possibly the solenoid. Like I said, it was in %26quot;good%26quot; condition we bought it, or so we thought. It's in %26quot;fair%26quot; condition. We have had the suv for a little over a year. My mum is also over paying. She's paying them eventually almost $8,000 when even in great condition, fair. That's the excellent value. The dealership has gone out of business and no way to talk to them.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
%26quot;Lemon laws%26quot; vary from state to state. Contact your state's AG to see if her car is covered under your state's law. Some states do cover used cars, but only if there is a warranty still in effect, and only for the warranty items.
One big thing that is VERY strongly advised to anyone buying a used car is to take it to a mechanic OF YOUR CHOICE to have it inspected. If the seller refuses to let you do this, it's a very good sign they are hiding something, and you should not walk away from the deal, but run as fast as you can away from it.
One big thing that stands out with your description: The airbag was repacked wrong. This is a VERY STRONG indication that the car was in an accident. While the wrong spark plugs is an issue, a tune up, oil change, and belts are not covered under lemon laws. They are normal maintenance items.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
The Lemon Laws do not apply at all to used cars. If it was used when your mom bought it, she's stuck with it.
This is hilarious...really.
First, who would you sue if the dealer is out of business? THINK!
Second, lemon laws only apply to NEW cars.
Third, 99% of used cars are sold %26quot;as is%26quot;...meaning you should have had it inspected before you bought it.
Fourth, I've neen around cars a long time and have never heard of an %26quot;air flow tube%26quot;. Overpaying is her fault...no one elses. No one put a gun to her head to make her buy it.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
%26quot;Lemon laws%26quot; vary from state to state. Contact your state's AG to see if her car is covered under your state's law. Some states do cover used cars, but only if there is a warranty still in effect, and only for the warranty items.
One big thing that is VERY strongly advised to anyone buying a used car is to take it to a mechanic OF YOUR CHOICE to have it inspected. If the seller refuses to let you do this, it's a very good sign they are hiding something, and you should not walk away from the deal, but run as fast as you can away from it.
One big thing that stands out with your description: The airbag was repacked wrong. This is a VERY STRONG indication that the car was in an accident. While the wrong spark plugs is an issue, a tune up, oil change, and belts are not covered under lemon laws. They are normal maintenance items.
Lemon Law? Suing? Car Issues!?
The Lemon Laws do not apply at all to used cars. If it was used when your mom bought it, she's stuck with it.
This is hilarious...really.
First, who would you sue if the dealer is out of business? THINK!
Second, lemon laws only apply to NEW cars.
Third, 99% of used cars are sold %26quot;as is%26quot;...meaning you should have had it inspected before you bought it.
Fourth, I've neen around cars a long time and have never heard of an %26quot;air flow tube%26quot;. Overpaying is her fault...no one elses. No one put a gun to her head to make her buy it.
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
I was expecting to find a single serpentine belt with an automatic tensioner pulley. I have changed serpentine belts on many models with no problem. But this Sienna has two belts, not one. One belt drives the power steering pump. The second belt drives the alternator and A/C. I don't see a tensioner pulley on either belt. Do these belts work like old-fashioned V-belts belts where you tension them by loosening something (like the alternator) and then using a pry bar to tighten the belt? I can barely see the power steering pump so it looks pretty tight, I welcome advice from anybody who knows this model. Thanks.
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
loosen the 14mm bolt on top of alternator. loosen 12mm bolt below alternator sitting sideways. adjust belt tension with 10mm bolt running through previous 12mm.
loosen 12mm bolt on top of power steering pump. underneath vehicle loosen a 12mm bolt below p/s pump pull on belt to relieve tension, and pry carefully to increase tension.
a bit of advice when reinstalling belts, the belt tension has to be just so, too tight and you will wreck the bearings in both pump and alt., too loose and the belts will squeal they have to be just right.reliable web hosting identifying rows
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
loosen the 14mm bolt on top of alternator. loosen 12mm bolt below alternator sitting sideways. adjust belt tension with 10mm bolt running through previous 12mm.
loosen 12mm bolt on top of power steering pump. underneath vehicle loosen a 12mm bolt below p/s pump pull on belt to relieve tension, and pry carefully to increase tension.
a bit of advice when reinstalling belts, the belt tension has to be just so, too tight and you will wreck the bearings in both pump and alt., too loose and the belts will squeal they have to be just right.
Car Engine Question, please help?
My machanic changed the Alternator Belt %26amp; Power Sterling belt for me 3 wks ago, while he did the oil change.
Now the water pump failed, all the coolant water came out of the bottom, is it possible that it has to do w/ the belt changes from 3 wks ago?
Car Engine Question, please help?
Yes, it IS possible, however, it isn't likely. I've worked in the automotive service industry for years and this happens all of the time. If it was something they did wrong it would have happend soon after you left the repair shop. I know it's prob not the answer you want to hear but sometimes cars fail, things break, and sometimes that's right after you have your vehicle serviced. I would take it back and ask them to take a look at it. Don't go there acusing anyone of damaging your car and i'm sure they will be more than helpful! Goodluck.
Car Engine Question, please help?
I would say it is purely coincidence. There is no way changing a belt will ruin the internal seal of the water pump. Guess it was it's time to go. What did the coolant come out of the bottom of, the water pump, or the radiator?
Yes if the belts also came off.It depends on the make and model.Weather your water pumps getting turned by one of the belts he changed.
If the belts are to tight, the water pump can mess up. I don't think it could ruin the thing in 3 weeks though unless you've driven 5000 miles or something. It's probably not even the water pump that's leaking.
n e thing is poss but it is not likely most tech watch 4 things like this to not make mistakes on things like that sounds like the weep hole is leaking on the water pump just a guess why do people ask q like this i take it personal that when someone works on ur car we should b married 2 it from then on take it back 2 the shop u had the repairs done at if they made a mistake give them the opportunity to repair it i will b the first 2 tell u that we arrent perfect but never assume someone screwed up ur car
Now the water pump failed, all the coolant water came out of the bottom, is it possible that it has to do w/ the belt changes from 3 wks ago?
Car Engine Question, please help?
Yes, it IS possible, however, it isn't likely. I've worked in the automotive service industry for years and this happens all of the time. If it was something they did wrong it would have happend soon after you left the repair shop. I know it's prob not the answer you want to hear but sometimes cars fail, things break, and sometimes that's right after you have your vehicle serviced. I would take it back and ask them to take a look at it. Don't go there acusing anyone of damaging your car and i'm sure they will be more than helpful! Goodluck.
Car Engine Question, please help?
I would say it is purely coincidence. There is no way changing a belt will ruin the internal seal of the water pump. Guess it was it's time to go. What did the coolant come out of the bottom of, the water pump, or the radiator?
Yes if the belts also came off.It depends on the make and model.Weather your water pumps getting turned by one of the belts he changed.
If the belts are to tight, the water pump can mess up. I don't think it could ruin the thing in 3 weeks though unless you've driven 5000 miles or something. It's probably not even the water pump that's leaking.
n e thing is poss but it is not likely most tech watch 4 things like this to not make mistakes on things like that sounds like the weep hole is leaking on the water pump just a guess why do people ask q like this i take it personal that when someone works on ur car we should b married 2 it from then on take it back 2 the shop u had the repairs done at if they made a mistake give them the opportunity to repair it i will b the first 2 tell u that we arrent perfect but never assume someone screwed up ur car
Just changed the alternator & power steering belts. now the car squeals only when i step on throttle. any help?
doesn't squeal when i first turn it on but then it starts to squeal when accessories are turned on and throttle is stepped on. its a '02 Mazda Protege
Just changed the alternator %26amp; power steering belts. now the car squeals only when i step on throttle. any help?
the belt is too loose.
Just changed the alternator %26amp; power steering belts. now the car squeals only when i step on throttle. any help?
Check your belts for tightness, sounds like they are loose! Good Luck!
Jerry Neighoff
Neighoff Sevices Center
Pasadena, MD 21122
If tightening doesn't do the job, then the alternator pulley may be glazed. Wire-wheel it.
Just changed the alternator %26amp; power steering belts. now the car squeals only when i step on throttle. any help?
the belt is too loose.
Just changed the alternator %26amp; power steering belts. now the car squeals only when i step on throttle. any help?
Check your belts for tightness, sounds like they are loose! Good Luck!
Jerry Neighoff
Neighoff Sevices Center
Pasadena, MD 21122
If tightening doesn't do the job, then the alternator pulley may be glazed. Wire-wheel it.
1985 Toyota Starlet; Timing belt replacment GONE WRONG... Help!!!!?
Hello its a Toyota Starlet 1985, 1.0L, 12V, 1E engine. I was trying to change the timing belt, however, I could not find the timing mark on crankshaft pulley, so I took the risk and pulled the belt off and installed the new one. Now the car won't start. I cranked it 3 times, but nothing. It did not sound like something is broken, pulley somehow turned and maybe timing belt is off by a few sprockets.
I opened up everything to look, but again could not find timing mark on the lower pulley. I can see the marks on upper pulley and also the mark on engine near crankshaft pulley, but no mark on crankshaft pulley itself. On the outer crankshaft pulley i.e. the one that turns alternator belt, there are many marks, from 0 to 10. Can those marks be used somehow? Under the hood it says Ignition timing 5 degrees with vacuum off, if I fit that pulley back how would I know which mark is TDC? Is it the same as ignition timing value i.e. 5 degree? or is TDC at 10 degrees (The highest mark)?
I was doing this in a rented garage and had to leave it in there, now I have two hours in morning to do this.
There is no repair manual available for this car. Please suggest how to fix this.
Thank you for your answers.
1985 Toyota Starlet; Timing belt replacment GONE WRONG... Help!!!!?
You need to find the mark, car wont start or will run like crap if timing is off . Pull spark plug one , put the dipstick in the hole turn the engine until it comes up all the way that's your TDC . If you remove the crank pulley you will see your mark on the timing belt gear . If it says 5 deg that's where it should be . After finding TDC line up you cam and put on your timing Belt. Done!
I opened up everything to look, but again could not find timing mark on the lower pulley. I can see the marks on upper pulley and also the mark on engine near crankshaft pulley, but no mark on crankshaft pulley itself. On the outer crankshaft pulley i.e. the one that turns alternator belt, there are many marks, from 0 to 10. Can those marks be used somehow? Under the hood it says Ignition timing 5 degrees with vacuum off, if I fit that pulley back how would I know which mark is TDC? Is it the same as ignition timing value i.e. 5 degree? or is TDC at 10 degrees (The highest mark)?
I was doing this in a rented garage and had to leave it in there, now I have two hours in morning to do this.
There is no repair manual available for this car. Please suggest how to fix this.
Thank you for your answers.
1985 Toyota Starlet; Timing belt replacment GONE WRONG... Help!!!!?
You need to find the mark, car wont start or will run like crap if timing is off . Pull spark plug one , put the dipstick in the hole turn the engine until it comes up all the way that's your TDC . If you remove the crank pulley you will see your mark on the timing belt gear . If it says 5 deg that's where it should be . After finding TDC line up you cam and put on your timing Belt. Done!
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
A basic question on changing out the alternator on a 7.3 liter powerstroke engine. I've got a 1999 Ford F-250 and I want to pull the alternator to test it. I've given it a quick glance and it looks like pulling the unit is pretty straighforward and on top (versus hard to reach). However, in order to loosen the serpentine belt, where is the adjustment (tension) pulley? I don't want to turn more bolts than I need to....thanks in advance
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
The last answer raises a good point - most charging problems can be tested without removing parts. If you do want (or need) to remove the alternator, get a breaker bar with a 1/2 inch drive, seat it securely into the tensioner opening, and get a helper to hold it with 2 hands to loosen the belt. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley and leave it hanging in place - it will make it a lot easier to re-install if you don't completlely remove it. Taking a couple photos of the belt in place is a good idea if you have to remove or replace it, they can be tough to figure out unless you have a diagram.
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
Mine is a '94, tensioner is located between the alternator and power steering pump, the belt runs underneath the tensioner. I use a fairly long bar, it takes considerable force to push it up.
Look for the pulley bracket with a 1/2%26quot; drive square in it. Use a breaker bar to pry it back to release tension on the belt.
Take it to a shop, they can test the charging system without a turn of a wrench !!
jac 1067 is correct.... actually if the truck was never wrecked, there should be a sticker on the radiator support or the hood that tells the size of the ratchet head and the direction you need to turn it in to release the belt.
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
The last answer raises a good point - most charging problems can be tested without removing parts. If you do want (or need) to remove the alternator, get a breaker bar with a 1/2 inch drive, seat it securely into the tensioner opening, and get a helper to hold it with 2 hands to loosen the belt. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley and leave it hanging in place - it will make it a lot easier to re-install if you don't completlely remove it. Taking a couple photos of the belt in place is a good idea if you have to remove or replace it, they can be tough to figure out unless you have a diagram.
Alternator Change on Powerstroke?
Mine is a '94, tensioner is located between the alternator and power steering pump, the belt runs underneath the tensioner. I use a fairly long bar, it takes considerable force to push it up.
Look for the pulley bracket with a 1/2%26quot; drive square in it. Use a breaker bar to pry it back to release tension on the belt.
Take it to a shop, they can test the charging system without a turn of a wrench !!
jac 1067 is correct.... actually if the truck was never wrecked, there should be a sticker on the radiator support or the hood that tells the size of the ratchet head and the direction you need to turn it in to release the belt.
MY car is squeaking really bad. Do I need a new belt?
It's the belt that goes around my alternator. I've tried decreasing and increasing the tension, but it didn't help very much, if at all. Should I get a new belt? I've changed it before on my truck. (For different reasons)
MY car is squeaking really bad. Do I need a new belt?
No. Just turn the radio up real loud. 鈽?br>
Why not take it to your mechanic. He wouldn't guess.
MY car is squeaking really bad. Do I need a new belt?
Try that! They don't cost that much!
You belt would be the cheapest fix I would imagine. If this doesn't work it could be the bearings in the alternator itself.
Better safe than sorry. You don't want any of the belts in there to break. I'd take it to a trusted mechanic to be sure, but you probably need a new one if it is squeaking. They're not usually expensive.
First make the belt nice and tight, if it still squeaks just sitting at an idle. Then take a little water and pour it on the belt ,if the noise goes away, it's a belt problem .........replace the belt.
If it doesn,t it's not the belt making the noise.
If the belt is new, or newer, you may have a bad pulley.
You can change the belt out, but the squeaking is probably from a bad pulley bearing. Could be on the alternator, could be the free pulley, could be the water pump, etc. etc. If you're replacing a bad bearing, you might as well replace the belt while it's off if the belt is cheap.
mine was squealing really bad the other day, and on my way into town it blew off and i got into town and my car was heating up.. wasnt good.
$20 for a new one.dating to find long hair styles
MY car is squeaking really bad. Do I need a new belt?
No. Just turn the radio up real loud. 鈽?br>
Why not take it to your mechanic. He wouldn't guess.
MY car is squeaking really bad. Do I need a new belt?
Try that! They don't cost that much!
You belt would be the cheapest fix I would imagine. If this doesn't work it could be the bearings in the alternator itself.
Better safe than sorry. You don't want any of the belts in there to break. I'd take it to a trusted mechanic to be sure, but you probably need a new one if it is squeaking. They're not usually expensive.
First make the belt nice and tight, if it still squeaks just sitting at an idle. Then take a little water and pour it on the belt ,if the noise goes away, it's a belt problem .........replace the belt.
If it doesn,t it's not the belt making the noise.
If the belt is new, or newer, you may have a bad pulley.
You can change the belt out, but the squeaking is probably from a bad pulley bearing. Could be on the alternator, could be the free pulley, could be the water pump, etc. etc. If you're replacing a bad bearing, you might as well replace the belt while it's off if the belt is cheap.
mine was squealing really bad the other day, and on my way into town it blew off and i got into town and my car was heating up.. wasnt good.
$20 for a new one.
Bad water pump on a 91 Honda Accord that is leaking all the fluid. Do I need to lift the engine out to repair?
I took off the A/C Compressor, Alternator, belts, and splash guard from the top of the engine. I still can't reach the water pump which is run by the timing belt which needs changed also. This seems impossible as an at home fix. Any info would be appreciated!
Bad water pump on a 91 Honda Accord that is leaking all the fluid. Do I need to lift the engine out to repair?
No - it actually is not that hard to get to. The trick is that Hondas are like onions (or ogres) - they have layers. Remove all the parts that are in the way up top, including the power steering pump (be prepared to deal with the upper line dripping [I used a sandwich bag and shop towel] - leave the intake line attached) and the cruise control actuator. The driver's side front wheel has to come off, of course, as does the crankshaft pulley. If you have not done that yet, it is the most daunting part of the whole project. Renting an impact driver rated at least 500 ft-lb is a very good idea because that bolt is tighter than God's corset. See the first source for ideas and cautions.
I expected to have very little room to work but once everything was cleared out it was open enough to work easily. The Helm manual I used as a guide had me unfasten the engine mount on that side and put a floor jack under the oil pan but I couldn't see why - maybe on yours that will be important
Bad water pump on a 91 Honda Accord that is leaking all the fluid. Do I need to lift the engine out to repair?
I'd first of all recommend getting yourself a manual because lining up the marks when installing the timing belt is extremely important, and failing to do so will result in bent valves, severe engine damage etc..You don't have to lift engine although you do have to support it when removing the upper motor mount. You'll need sockets and wrenches 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm. also while your in there be sure to check the tensioner bearing as well as the cam and crank seals.Usually the hardest thing about doing a t-belt job on a honda is removing the crankshaft bolt. You'll almost surely need a 1/2 inch drive impact gun or a special tool that is used on Honda's for this purpose. That and working in a limited amount of space is the only other issue. Take your time and make sure you follow the instructions when lining up the marks. Good luck and hope this helps..
you remove the mount that's in the way any way and you use a floor jack and a block of wood to jack the engine up from the oil pan.
1991 Honda Accord L4-2156cc 2.2L SOHC
TIMING BELT AND TIMING BALANCER BELT REPLACEMENT
CAUTION:
* Inspect the water pump when replacing the timing belt.
NOTE:
* Turn the crankshaft so that the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.
* Before removing timing belt, mark direction of rotation.
* Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (If the vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft radio, be sure to get the five digit code from the customer. After reconnecting power and turning the radio ON, the word %26quot;CODE%26quot; will be displayed. Enter the code at this time).
Removal
1. Remove the splash shield.
2. Disconnect the connector, then remove the cruise control actuator. NOTE:
o Do not disconnect the control cable.
o Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with a new one.
3. Remove the mounting bolt, nut and V-belt from the power steering pump, then remove the bolts and nuts. Loosen the adjusting bolt. Pull the pump away from the mounting bracket. NOTE:
o Plug the pipe and the pump port.
o Do not disconnect the hose.
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from the valve cover.
5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt, nut and the adjusting bolt, then remove the alternator belt or air conditioning belt (cars equipped with air conditioning).
6. Remove the valve cover.
7. Remove the side engine mount bracket B (standard for some types).
8. Remove the upper cover.
9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe.
11. Remove the adjusting nut.
12. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley. Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give clearance to remove the lower cover.
13. Remove the lower cover.
14. Push the timing balancer belt tensioner and the timing belt tensioner to remove tension on the belts, then tighten the adjusting nut.
15. Remove the timing balancer belt and the timing belt.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; adjust the valve clearances.
2. positioning the crankshaft and the camshaft pulley before installing the new timing belt. NOTE:
o Install the timing belt with the No.1 piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke.
o When turning the crankshaft with a socket wrench, install the crankshaft pulley and the pulley bolt.
3. Align the groove on the front timing balancer belt driven pulley to the pointer on the oil pump body as shown.
4. Align the rear timing balancer belt driven pulley using a 6 x 100 mm bolt or an equivalent, mark a line at 74 mm. Align the rear timing balancer belt driven pulley by inserting the bolt through the maintenance hole. NOTE:
o The mark must be flush with the maintenance hole surface.
o When the special tool is not available, a 6.2 mm dia pin can be used as a substitute. Insert the pin as shown above.
5. Install the new timing balancer belt if necessary, then remove the adjusting nut.
6. Perform the tension adjustment of the timing belt and the timing balancer belt. See: Adjustments
7. After adjusting the belt tension, lock the timing belt adjuster arm with the 6 X 1.0 mm bolt used to tighten timing bolt lower cover.
8. Loosen the adjusting nut and check that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
9. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn:tighten the adjusting nut (adjustment is completed). NOTE:
o Do not apply tension on the tensioner when tightening the adjusting nut as the tensioner is spring loaded.
CAUTION:
* Do not apply excessive tension to the timing balancer belt. It is designed to operate with smaller tension than those of other belts.
10. Tighten the adjusting nut and the 6 X 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm.
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
12. Install the timing belt lower cover.
13. Install a new timing belt adjuster rubber seal without loosening the adjusting nut. NOTE:
o Never loosen the adjusting nut as this will be disturb the adjustment of the timing and balancer belt.
14. Install the timing belt upper cover.
15. Install the crankshaft pulley.
16. Coat the threads and seat face of the pulley bolt with engine oil, and tighten to the specified torque. Specified Torque: 220 N.m (159 ft. lbs.) NOTE:
o After reassembly, adjust the tension of the power steering belt and alternator belt or air conditioning belt.
Bad water pump on a 91 Honda Accord that is leaking all the fluid. Do I need to lift the engine out to repair?
No - it actually is not that hard to get to. The trick is that Hondas are like onions (or ogres) - they have layers. Remove all the parts that are in the way up top, including the power steering pump (be prepared to deal with the upper line dripping [I used a sandwich bag and shop towel] - leave the intake line attached) and the cruise control actuator. The driver's side front wheel has to come off, of course, as does the crankshaft pulley. If you have not done that yet, it is the most daunting part of the whole project. Renting an impact driver rated at least 500 ft-lb is a very good idea because that bolt is tighter than God's corset. See the first source for ideas and cautions.
I expected to have very little room to work but once everything was cleared out it was open enough to work easily. The Helm manual I used as a guide had me unfasten the engine mount on that side and put a floor jack under the oil pan but I couldn't see why - maybe on yours that will be important
Bad water pump on a 91 Honda Accord that is leaking all the fluid. Do I need to lift the engine out to repair?
I'd first of all recommend getting yourself a manual because lining up the marks when installing the timing belt is extremely important, and failing to do so will result in bent valves, severe engine damage etc..You don't have to lift engine although you do have to support it when removing the upper motor mount. You'll need sockets and wrenches 10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm. also while your in there be sure to check the tensioner bearing as well as the cam and crank seals.Usually the hardest thing about doing a t-belt job on a honda is removing the crankshaft bolt. You'll almost surely need a 1/2 inch drive impact gun or a special tool that is used on Honda's for this purpose. That and working in a limited amount of space is the only other issue. Take your time and make sure you follow the instructions when lining up the marks. Good luck and hope this helps..
you remove the mount that's in the way any way and you use a floor jack and a block of wood to jack the engine up from the oil pan.
1991 Honda Accord L4-2156cc 2.2L SOHC
TIMING BELT AND TIMING BALANCER BELT REPLACEMENT
CAUTION:
* Inspect the water pump when replacing the timing belt.
NOTE:
* Turn the crankshaft so that the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.
* Before removing timing belt, mark direction of rotation.
* Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (If the vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft radio, be sure to get the five digit code from the customer. After reconnecting power and turning the radio ON, the word %26quot;CODE%26quot; will be displayed. Enter the code at this time).
Removal
1. Remove the splash shield.
2. Disconnect the connector, then remove the cruise control actuator. NOTE:
o Do not disconnect the control cable.
o Take care not to bend the cable when removing the actuator. Always replace a kinked cable with a new one.
3. Remove the mounting bolt, nut and V-belt from the power steering pump, then remove the bolts and nuts. Loosen the adjusting bolt. Pull the pump away from the mounting bracket. NOTE:
o Plug the pipe and the pump port.
o Do not disconnect the hose.
4. Disconnect the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from the valve cover.
5. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt, nut and the adjusting bolt, then remove the alternator belt or air conditioning belt (cars equipped with air conditioning).
6. Remove the valve cover.
7. Remove the side engine mount bracket B (standard for some types).
8. Remove the upper cover.
9. Remove the side engine mount.
10. Remove the dipstick and the pipe.
11. Remove the adjusting nut.
12. Remove the special bolt and the crankshaft pulley. Remove the two rear bolts from the center beam to allow the engine to drop down and give clearance to remove the lower cover.
13. Remove the lower cover.
14. Push the timing balancer belt tensioner and the timing belt tensioner to remove tension on the belts, then tighten the adjusting nut.
15. Remove the timing balancer belt and the timing belt.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the timing belt in the reverse order of removal; adjust the valve clearances.
2. positioning the crankshaft and the camshaft pulley before installing the new timing belt. NOTE:
o Install the timing belt with the No.1 piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke.
o When turning the crankshaft with a socket wrench, install the crankshaft pulley and the pulley bolt.
3. Align the groove on the front timing balancer belt driven pulley to the pointer on the oil pump body as shown.
4. Align the rear timing balancer belt driven pulley using a 6 x 100 mm bolt or an equivalent, mark a line at 74 mm. Align the rear timing balancer belt driven pulley by inserting the bolt through the maintenance hole. NOTE:
o The mark must be flush with the maintenance hole surface.
o When the special tool is not available, a 6.2 mm dia pin can be used as a substitute. Insert the pin as shown above.
5. Install the new timing balancer belt if necessary, then remove the adjusting nut.
6. Perform the tension adjustment of the timing belt and the timing balancer belt. See: Adjustments
7. After adjusting the belt tension, lock the timing belt adjuster arm with the 6 X 1.0 mm bolt used to tighten timing bolt lower cover.
8. Loosen the adjusting nut and check that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
9. Turn the crankshaft pulley about one turn:tighten the adjusting nut (adjustment is completed). NOTE:
o Do not apply tension on the tensioner when tightening the adjusting nut as the tensioner is spring loaded.
CAUTION:
* Do not apply excessive tension to the timing balancer belt. It is designed to operate with smaller tension than those of other belts.
10. Tighten the adjusting nut and the 6 X 1.0 mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm.
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
12. Install the timing belt lower cover.
13. Install a new timing belt adjuster rubber seal without loosening the adjusting nut. NOTE:
o Never loosen the adjusting nut as this will be disturb the adjustment of the timing and balancer belt.
14. Install the timing belt upper cover.
15. Install the crankshaft pulley.
16. Coat the threads and seat face of the pulley bolt with engine oil, and tighten to the specified torque. Specified Torque: 220 N.m (159 ft. lbs.) NOTE:
o After reassembly, adjust the tension of the power steering belt and alternator belt or air conditioning belt.
Im hearing a knocking noise form the engine by the surpentine belt?
I dont think it is a rod knock because wen i take the surpentine belt off and start the engine the knocking stops so what could it be i changed the water pump and alternator the only thing left is the power steering pump is this the problem
Im hearing a knocking noise form the engine by the surpentine belt?
Here is an old trick. Take a Broom stick handle and with the engine running put it on or near each component (alt p/steering pump) etc. and listen.....you will hear the difference (note) don't put it directly on the pulley. Hope this Helps.
Im hearing a knocking noise form the engine by the surpentine belt?
It could be the ac compressor, or tensioner pulley
Im hearing a knocking noise form the engine by the surpentine belt?
Here is an old trick. Take a Broom stick handle and with the engine running put it on or near each component (alt p/steering pump) etc. and listen.....you will hear the difference (note) don't put it directly on the pulley. Hope this Helps.
Im hearing a knocking noise form the engine by the surpentine belt?
It could be the ac compressor, or tensioner pulley
Follow up/ Additional Info : Changed belts and now i have Squeaky noise?
Here is the original question with additional info
I had a mechanic changed the timing belt, Alternator belt and AC fan belt on my Mazda 626 2002
Since then when my car is cold and I start the car after driving for 10 sec it make a Squeaky noise. This noise come for like 1 or 2 sec and then it goes away. I took it back to the mechanic and he has adjusted the belts. However the problem remains. Someone was telling me that this happens because the pulley is still old and the tension may be just too much for it.
Any thoughts?
Additional Details
My belts were fine - no noise.
I had bought the belts because I was having the timing belt changed. I have not been able to duplicate the problem so I haven鈥檛 been able to show this to the mechanic. The noise come for 1 or 2 seconds only and then goes away. And only comes when you start the car and the car is cold.
I told him. He said he heard a noise and adjusted the belts and then the noise. However the problem remains
Follow up/ Additional Info : Changed belts and now i have Squeaky noise?
belt dressing cannot be used on serpentine (ribbed) style belts. if there is an automatic tensioner involved, change it.
you just sunk a bunch of money into doing about 65 % of the job. at timing belt time, a new water pump, thermostat, hoses, and antifreeze flush are all in order to. if it were my car i'd do a trans flush and fill as well. (change the brake fluid and p/s fluid if i had enough day to get it all done.)
Follow up/ Additional Info : Changed belts and now i have Squeaky noise?
I cant remember the name of it but there is a liquid you spray on the belts that will stop this. Your retarded mechanic obviously is too stingy to buy the stuff
It's not the belts, It's the alignment of all the pulleys. Most mechanics are looking to get the thing(your car) out the door(the dealers shop) as soon as possible. If your vehicle is still within warranty,,have them check the pulley alignment! Best to you! ;-)=
get some belt dressing or a little squirt of WD40 if the belt was changed i'm assuming he checked the pulleys
check belts for proper fit, check tension a new belt will cause same to skeek. OLD , belts strech, and loose tension, new belts pull with more trush. If tensioner has lost lubrication it will make noise
I had a mechanic changed the timing belt, Alternator belt and AC fan belt on my Mazda 626 2002
Since then when my car is cold and I start the car after driving for 10 sec it make a Squeaky noise. This noise come for like 1 or 2 sec and then it goes away. I took it back to the mechanic and he has adjusted the belts. However the problem remains. Someone was telling me that this happens because the pulley is still old and the tension may be just too much for it.
Any thoughts?
Additional Details
My belts were fine - no noise.
I had bought the belts because I was having the timing belt changed. I have not been able to duplicate the problem so I haven鈥檛 been able to show this to the mechanic. The noise come for 1 or 2 seconds only and then goes away. And only comes when you start the car and the car is cold.
I told him. He said he heard a noise and adjusted the belts and then the noise. However the problem remains
Follow up/ Additional Info : Changed belts and now i have Squeaky noise?
belt dressing cannot be used on serpentine (ribbed) style belts. if there is an automatic tensioner involved, change it.
you just sunk a bunch of money into doing about 65 % of the job. at timing belt time, a new water pump, thermostat, hoses, and antifreeze flush are all in order to. if it were my car i'd do a trans flush and fill as well. (change the brake fluid and p/s fluid if i had enough day to get it all done.)
Follow up/ Additional Info : Changed belts and now i have Squeaky noise?
I cant remember the name of it but there is a liquid you spray on the belts that will stop this. Your retarded mechanic obviously is too stingy to buy the stuff
It's not the belts, It's the alignment of all the pulleys. Most mechanics are looking to get the thing(your car) out the door(the dealers shop) as soon as possible. If your vehicle is still within warranty,,have them check the pulley alignment! Best to you! ;-)=
get some belt dressing or a little squirt of WD40 if the belt was changed i'm assuming he checked the pulleys
check belts for proper fit, check tension a new belt will cause same to skeek. OLD , belts strech, and loose tension, new belts pull with more trush. If tensioner has lost lubrication it will make noise
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
its an 87 olds delta 88 this is what i have changed Alternator, Battery, Belt, Coil Pack, Crank Position Sensor, Fuel Pump, Fuel Line, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Fuel Pump Relay
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
Well your fuel injectors could be clogged up. did your car recently run out of gas fully? all the gunk and **** can get clogged up in there .
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
you mean there are no juice going to them? i have the same car except mine is a 1988 and i have a plug-in on the harness that goes to the injectors.you might check the plug-in.
Sounds like you are not getting an injector pulse from the ECM. May need to replace the computer or check the wiring to the injectors for any breaks.
good luck....
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
Well your fuel injectors could be clogged up. did your car recently run out of gas fully? all the gunk and **** can get clogged up in there .
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
you mean there are no juice going to them? i have the same car except mine is a 1988 and i have a plug-in on the harness that goes to the injectors.you might check the plug-in.
Sounds like you are not getting an injector pulse from the ECM. May need to replace the computer or check the wiring to the injectors for any breaks.
good luck....
LOUD squeak coming from serpentine belt?
We changed the alternator and had to loosen the belt (1).When we replaced everything and tightened the belt it became very loud. Like power steering pump squeak. Hard to tell where it is coming from.The squeak wasn't there before.Is belt too tight or too loose? (95 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0)
LOUD squeak coming from serpentine belt?
Your belt may be loose, or you may have a bed bering in one of your pulley's. I would start by getting the belt tightened. If that does not work you can easily find out where the noise is coming from......
1. Take a long screwdriver and CAREFULLY place it on everything that has a pulley. (Alternator, tensioner, etc.)
2. Place your ear on the end of the screwdriver. The screwdriver will magnify any noise that is going on inside that may be causing the problem.
You can also buy belt compound that will %26quot;moisten%26quot; your belt. Some really old school guys use a bar of soap on the belt to lubricate it. I would not reccoment that though. Very dangerous.
Hope you get it fixed....
LOUD squeak coming from serpentine belt?
Do that with a screwdriver and you could get it shoved in your head.
Squealing belt = loose belt
or
= pulley not turning for whatever reason
On v-belt in the past I touched a bar of soap to the edges and they stopped squealing. I would try tighitening the belt first.layered hair ittwit
LOUD squeak coming from serpentine belt?
Your belt may be loose, or you may have a bed bering in one of your pulley's. I would start by getting the belt tightened. If that does not work you can easily find out where the noise is coming from......
1. Take a long screwdriver and CAREFULLY place it on everything that has a pulley. (Alternator, tensioner, etc.)
2. Place your ear on the end of the screwdriver. The screwdriver will magnify any noise that is going on inside that may be causing the problem.
You can also buy belt compound that will %26quot;moisten%26quot; your belt. Some really old school guys use a bar of soap on the belt to lubricate it. I would not reccoment that though. Very dangerous.
Hope you get it fixed....
LOUD squeak coming from serpentine belt?
Do that with a screwdriver and you could get it shoved in your head.
Report Abuse
Squealing belt = loose belt
or
= pulley not turning for whatever reason
On v-belt in the past I touched a bar of soap to the edges and they stopped squealing. I would try tighitening the belt first.
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
I recently had to replace an alternator when the car broke down. I did it myself so I know everything that was touched/moved. Ever since then the power steering has been making a whining noise that gets louder when turned left or right.
I drive a 1998 Honda Accord with a 3.0L engine, it has 2 belts (one coming from the crank leading directly to the p/s, and the other coming from the crank leading to the a/c and alternator with a belt tensioner). The only belt I touched was the one leading to the alternator. The belt tensioner does not touch the p/s belt.
There was NO noise or problem before the alternator change. I checked the fluid and it is fine, tried bleeding the fluid and nothing changed. What else could be the problem? Kinda' odd that it happened right after the alternator change. The p/s belt was NOT touched in the least during the change. Also, the whine isn't near as noticeable when you get driving...just at slow speeds and idle.
Thanks for reading,
Brian
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
You need to either tighten the p/s belt or replace it. This would have happened whether you changed the alternator or not. The belt is simply worn and needs tightened up or replaced.
Your car is soon to be nine years old. It is time to replace the belts and hoses if it has not been done already. These rubber items commonly wear out and need to be replaced on occassion.
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
My Nissan does that too, and the fluid is also fine...not sure what the problem is.
If there's no fluid leak, the pump could be bad. Double check the belt's wear marks.
it is probably ur ps pump going bad
make sure the belts are tight enough.
I think there is belt dressing you can put on them to quiet them
if you put that on and it changes the sound then you have your answer. if that does something then you might change the belt if the sound comes back
good luck
Many times fixing one thing with a new part WILL lead to a malfunction of an inter-related or associate part...like something connected by belts. Usually when you hear the whining sound...one of the most obnoxious sounds coming from under the hood...it means a low power steering fluid situation...you checked for leaks...so...might be a worn or starting to malfunction pump. Also, when you speed up...more pressure is applied to the pump...possibly over-riding slow speed whine.
I drive a 1998 Honda Accord with a 3.0L engine, it has 2 belts (one coming from the crank leading directly to the p/s, and the other coming from the crank leading to the a/c and alternator with a belt tensioner). The only belt I touched was the one leading to the alternator. The belt tensioner does not touch the p/s belt.
There was NO noise or problem before the alternator change. I checked the fluid and it is fine, tried bleeding the fluid and nothing changed. What else could be the problem? Kinda' odd that it happened right after the alternator change. The p/s belt was NOT touched in the least during the change. Also, the whine isn't near as noticeable when you get driving...just at slow speeds and idle.
Thanks for reading,
Brian
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
You need to either tighten the p/s belt or replace it. This would have happened whether you changed the alternator or not. The belt is simply worn and needs tightened up or replaced.
Your car is soon to be nine years old. It is time to replace the belts and hoses if it has not been done already. These rubber items commonly wear out and need to be replaced on occassion.
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
My Nissan does that too, and the fluid is also fine...not sure what the problem is.
If there's no fluid leak, the pump could be bad. Double check the belt's wear marks.
it is probably ur ps pump going bad
make sure the belts are tight enough.
I think there is belt dressing you can put on them to quiet them
if you put that on and it changes the sound then you have your answer. if that does something then you might change the belt if the sound comes back
good luck
Many times fixing one thing with a new part WILL lead to a malfunction of an inter-related or associate part...like something connected by belts. Usually when you hear the whining sound...one of the most obnoxious sounds coming from under the hood...it means a low power steering fluid situation...you checked for leaks...so...might be a worn or starting to malfunction pump. Also, when you speed up...more pressure is applied to the pump...possibly over-riding slow speed whine.
Belt comes off 99 firebird? 3.6 V6?
I changed my alternator and serpentine belt, then about a month later the belt started coming off.
Now it's 2 months since then, the belt comes off much more frequent.
The alternator doesn't seem to be in-line with everything, would this have anything to do with it?
ALSO, my water pump has a small leak, and it leaks right on the belt, would that cause it to slip off?
Thanks!
Belt comes off 99 firebird? 3.6 V6?
THAT belt should be lined up, and have proper tension, the reason it is coming off is there is a problem, it sounds like it was twisted, and it is stretching as we speak, it is kind of a big rubber band go to a shop, and get the new belt done right, before you end up stuck on the side of the road good luck
Belt comes off 99 firebird? 3.6 V6?
A serpentine belt is designed to be very ridged when flexing side to side under tension. If your alternator was replaced and does not line up with the other accessories on the front of the car this is the cause. Also running with misaligned components will damage the belt over time. Fix the alignment problem first and then replace the belt with a new one.
The wrong alternator could have been installed or a spacer was left out when mounting it.
Water dripping on the belt could possibly cause it to slip but not come off.
Now it's 2 months since then, the belt comes off much more frequent.
The alternator doesn't seem to be in-line with everything, would this have anything to do with it?
ALSO, my water pump has a small leak, and it leaks right on the belt, would that cause it to slip off?
Thanks!
Belt comes off 99 firebird? 3.6 V6?
THAT belt should be lined up, and have proper tension, the reason it is coming off is there is a problem, it sounds like it was twisted, and it is stretching as we speak, it is kind of a big rubber band go to a shop, and get the new belt done right, before you end up stuck on the side of the road good luck
Belt comes off 99 firebird? 3.6 V6?
A serpentine belt is designed to be very ridged when flexing side to side under tension. If your alternator was replaced and does not line up with the other accessories on the front of the car this is the cause. Also running with misaligned components will damage the belt over time. Fix the alignment problem first and then replace the belt with a new one.
The wrong alternator could have been installed or a spacer was left out when mounting it.
Water dripping on the belt could possibly cause it to slip but not come off.
I have nover alternator off a same engine sept the wheel is wider can it be changed over at all ?
my belt wheel is wider can the alterNATOR WHEEL BE CHANGED OVER .
I have nover alternator off a same engine sept the wheel is wider can it be changed over at all ?
Are you asking in you can change the pully on an alternator?
Yes sometimes when you buy an alternator it may come with a diff pully style, as long as the alternator is correct you can swap the pullys so your belt will work correclty.
I have nover alternator off a same engine sept the wheel is wider can it be changed over at all ?
Are you asking in you can change the pully on an alternator?
Yes sometimes when you buy an alternator it may come with a diff pully style, as long as the alternator is correct you can swap the pullys so your belt will work correclty.
How do I change the Serpentine belt on a 1987 Chevy S-10 4x4 Pick up 2.8 V6?
I am trying to replace the belt and I cant figure out how to get the tension off the belt. It looked like I could take the alternator off but now its half off and stuck and I dont see a suitable place to pry on it. I must be doing this the wrong way so I thought I would try this! Thanks
How do I change the Serpentine belt on a 1987 Chevy S-10 4x4 Pick up 2.8 V6?
Many vehicles with serpentine belt tensioners do have a hole to insert a breaker bar directly, but on yours you need to use a box end wrench or socket and breaker bar (preferred over a ratchet if at all possible). Sorry, I don't know offhand which size it would be, but usually around 3/4 inch. Might be metric.
______________________________________鈥?br>
Place a large box wrench or 1/2 in. breaker bar and socket over the tensioner pulley axis bolt (the bolt in the center of the pulley portion, not the mounting portion) and rotate the tensioner counterclockwise loosen the belt.
While holding the tensioner in this position, remove the accessory drive belt and gently release the tensioner. (usually, it's easiest to slip the belt off the alternator first when removing, and slip it on the alternator last, after routing around the other pulleys when putting the new one on)
Never allow the tension to snap back into position with or without the belt installed. Allowing the sudden release of tension could result in damage to the tensioner assembly.
To install:
Begin to position the belt over the pulleys making sure the routing is correct.
Use the box wrench or breaker bar to pivot and hold the tensioner, then slip the belt fully into position.
Slowly ease the tensioner into contact with the belt.
No belt tensioning is necessary as the automatic tensioner is spring loaded.
______________________________________鈥?br>
This web page has more info. Note that engines of different sizes and with different accessories have different belt routing. If you do not have a diagram under the hood (like on top of the radiator usually), then you should draw one by hand before you start.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4761749_chevy-dr鈥?/a>
This one also mentions how the alternator can apparently be adjusted on yours. After the belt is off, try to put it back to where it was and re-fasten, then check the marks on the tensioner as described when you're done putting the new belt on, to be sure the mark on the tensioner arm is between the 2 marks on the tensioner base.
This is usually used to tell if a belt is stretched, but in your case, can help to make sure the alternator is back where it should be. Also, check the brackets for signs of where the bolts were before you loosened it.
How do I change the Serpentine belt on a 1987 Chevy S-10 4x4 Pick up 2.8 V6?
There is an automatic belt tensioner on the motor that accepts a 3/8 drive ratchet and when you turn it you will be able to get the belt off. If you look at the belt routing diagram under the hood the tensioner will be noted with a small arrow telling you which way to turn it. Hope I have been helpful.
How do I change the Serpentine belt on a 1987 Chevy S-10 4x4 Pick up 2.8 V6?
Many vehicles with serpentine belt tensioners do have a hole to insert a breaker bar directly, but on yours you need to use a box end wrench or socket and breaker bar (preferred over a ratchet if at all possible). Sorry, I don't know offhand which size it would be, but usually around 3/4 inch. Might be metric.
______________________________________鈥?br>
Place a large box wrench or 1/2 in. breaker bar and socket over the tensioner pulley axis bolt (the bolt in the center of the pulley portion, not the mounting portion) and rotate the tensioner counterclockwise loosen the belt.
While holding the tensioner in this position, remove the accessory drive belt and gently release the tensioner. (usually, it's easiest to slip the belt off the alternator first when removing, and slip it on the alternator last, after routing around the other pulleys when putting the new one on)
Never allow the tension to snap back into position with or without the belt installed. Allowing the sudden release of tension could result in damage to the tensioner assembly.
To install:
Begin to position the belt over the pulleys making sure the routing is correct.
Use the box wrench or breaker bar to pivot and hold the tensioner, then slip the belt fully into position.
Slowly ease the tensioner into contact with the belt.
No belt tensioning is necessary as the automatic tensioner is spring loaded.
______________________________________鈥?br>
This web page has more info. Note that engines of different sizes and with different accessories have different belt routing. If you do not have a diagram under the hood (like on top of the radiator usually), then you should draw one by hand before you start.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4761749_chevy-dr鈥?/a>
This one also mentions how the alternator can apparently be adjusted on yours. After the belt is off, try to put it back to where it was and re-fasten, then check the marks on the tensioner as described when you're done putting the new belt on, to be sure the mark on the tensioner arm is between the 2 marks on the tensioner base.
This is usually used to tell if a belt is stretched, but in your case, can help to make sure the alternator is back where it should be. Also, check the brackets for signs of where the bolts were before you loosened it.
How do I change the Serpentine belt on a 1987 Chevy S-10 4x4 Pick up 2.8 V6?
There is an automatic belt tensioner on the motor that accepts a 3/8 drive ratchet and when you turn it you will be able to get the belt off. If you look at the belt routing diagram under the hood the tensioner will be noted with a small arrow telling you which way to turn it. Hope I have been helpful.
How do you change the serpentine belt on a 1998 Honda Accord?
It's an LX 4cyl. Its actually had 2 belts next to each other that I'm looking to replace. I do not see a tensioner so do I just remove the Alternator pulley to replace or what?
How do you change the serpentine belt on a 1998 Honda Accord?
I think on this car the Alternator tensions one of the belts and the Power steering pump tensions the other one. You do not remove the pulleys, you need to loosen(do not remove) like 2 or 3 bolts on the ps pump and then the pump should slide and the belt should come off. Same story with the alt...but im sure that only has two bolts....one of them is under the alt and you can reach it easier from underneath. Good luck!
How do you change the serpentine belt on a 1998 Honda Accord?
That engine doesn't have tensioners instead it has brackets that are slotted. All you need to do is loosen (dont remove) the bolts. Probably a 12mm and move the alternator and or power steering pump. This will take the tension off the belt so you can remove it.
the one on the lefthair gel camping tent rental
How do you change the serpentine belt on a 1998 Honda Accord?
I think on this car the Alternator tensions one of the belts and the Power steering pump tensions the other one. You do not remove the pulleys, you need to loosen(do not remove) like 2 or 3 bolts on the ps pump and then the pump should slide and the belt should come off. Same story with the alt...but im sure that only has two bolts....one of them is under the alt and you can reach it easier from underneath. Good luck!
How do you change the serpentine belt on a 1998 Honda Accord?
That engine doesn't have tensioners instead it has brackets that are slotted. All you need to do is loosen (dont remove) the bolts. Probably a 12mm and move the alternator and or power steering pump. This will take the tension off the belt so you can remove it.
the one on the left
Drive belt dodge???
i own an intrepid, and recently i changed the alternator myself, and i changed the belt because it was a little cracked. so my car works ok.
but i heard with some friends that the drive belt's tension has to be adjusted according with the car.
so do i have to get the car to check the drive belt is well adjusted??? and if i leave it like that, it might damage the engine????
Drive belt dodge???
If your car has a automatic belt tensioner, that automatically adjusts belt preload.on the other hand if the belt is not squealing your probably ok,no need to worry
Drive belt dodge???
The belt you are speaking of should have tensioner. When the other answerer said %26quot;automatic%26quot; they were refering to the spring loaded pulley you had to move to put the belt on. These do not require any adjustment. If they go bad it will start throwing the belt off. The only ones that need adjusting have a threaded adjustment screw. I don't believe yours is one of them. If it is spring loaded you're fine and it won't damage your engine. The belt is called an Accessorie Drive Belt .......just a technicality.
the belt or belts under the hood have nothing to do with your transmission - your trans belt is - you guessed it in the transmission.
but i heard with some friends that the drive belt's tension has to be adjusted according with the car.
so do i have to get the car to check the drive belt is well adjusted??? and if i leave it like that, it might damage the engine????
Drive belt dodge???
If your car has a automatic belt tensioner, that automatically adjusts belt preload.on the other hand if the belt is not squealing your probably ok,no need to worry
Drive belt dodge???
The belt you are speaking of should have tensioner. When the other answerer said %26quot;automatic%26quot; they were refering to the spring loaded pulley you had to move to put the belt on. These do not require any adjustment. If they go bad it will start throwing the belt off. The only ones that need adjusting have a threaded adjustment screw. I don't believe yours is one of them. If it is spring loaded you're fine and it won't damage your engine. The belt is called an Accessorie Drive Belt .......just a technicality.
the belt or belts under the hood have nothing to do with your transmission - your trans belt is - you guessed it in the transmission.
Engine Question?
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L I4, and i was wondering why my engine almost sounds electric, kind of a high pitch noise when accelerating. I took it into a reputable dealer twice for it.
First time- Changed Alternator Belt but it didn't fix it
second time- though it might be muffler problem wasn't, and they tested out another of the same year and it did the same thing.
Does anyone know if this is a normal sound?
Plus i do live in Wisconsin and it is cold, but i mean it does it even when the car is warmed up
Engine Question?
Some engines make a pretty loud timing belt noise. If the other car sounds the same it's most likely normal.
Engine Question?
It could be a handful of things thats why they didnt fix it on the first trys it could also just be that type of car you should ask another owner or mabey even test drive a used one to see if its the same it could also be something with your power steering pump or rack and pinoin if it happens when you are turning for the people to fix it right you got to tell them exsatly what it sounds like and when it happens for them to narrow down the things that is could be
it is a normal sound
First time- Changed Alternator Belt but it didn't fix it
second time- though it might be muffler problem wasn't, and they tested out another of the same year and it did the same thing.
Does anyone know if this is a normal sound?
Plus i do live in Wisconsin and it is cold, but i mean it does it even when the car is warmed up
Engine Question?
Some engines make a pretty loud timing belt noise. If the other car sounds the same it's most likely normal.
Engine Question?
It could be a handful of things thats why they didnt fix it on the first trys it could also just be that type of car you should ask another owner or mabey even test drive a used one to see if its the same it could also be something with your power steering pump or rack and pinoin if it happens when you are turning for the people to fix it right you got to tell them exsatly what it sounds like and when it happens for them to narrow down the things that is could be
it is a normal sound
1983 jeep Cherokee fan belt exchange?
I'm having trouble changing the fan belt on this truck, because I cant find the tension adjustment on the belt system. I think its in the power stering, but it might be on the alternator. where is it located?
1983 jeep Cherokee fan belt exchange?
If its a serpentine belt as you're facing it, it's the smaller smooth-sided wheel on the right.
1983 jeep Cherokee fan belt exchange?
If I am not mistaking, the adjustment is on the driver's side. I think that it has a bolt that adjusts it and 1 or 2 bolts that hold it is place.
Well it depends if you have a serpentine belt (one belt that drives everything) or if you have v-belts. If you have v-belts, you will have to tighten each belt at a different location usually. If you have power steering, adjusting the power steering pump is how you tighten that belt. You will have to adjust the alternator to tighten that belt as well. I have an 81 Jeep CJ-7 with a 258 (4.2L) 6 cyl that has v-belts and this is how I tighten my belts.
1983 jeep Cherokee fan belt exchange?
If its a serpentine belt as you're facing it, it's the smaller smooth-sided wheel on the right.
1983 jeep Cherokee fan belt exchange?
If I am not mistaking, the adjustment is on the driver's side. I think that it has a bolt that adjusts it and 1 or 2 bolts that hold it is place.
Well it depends if you have a serpentine belt (one belt that drives everything) or if you have v-belts. If you have v-belts, you will have to tighten each belt at a different location usually. If you have power steering, adjusting the power steering pump is how you tighten that belt. You will have to adjust the alternator to tighten that belt as well. I have an 81 Jeep CJ-7 with a 258 (4.2L) 6 cyl that has v-belts and this is how I tighten my belts.
My Buick Century won't start after replacing the serpentine belt. Does anyone have a theory?
I have a 1990 Buick Century that is in excellent condition. Due to a very stupid error on my part, I haven't changed the serpentine belt for some time. The belt snapped this afternoon and I replaced it, which I have done before as routine maintenance. Now, the car turns over, but refuses to start. I have checked to make certain the compressor, alternator and other significant parts are working correctly and everything appears to be functioning. Can anyone think of a reason the car might not start? Thank you in advance!
My Buick Century won't start after replacing the serpentine belt. Does anyone have a theory?
Your problem is likely the crankshaft position sensor or the wiring harness leading to it. The sensor on your engine is mounted on a bracket near the harmonic balancer. The belt when it broke may have moved the sensor out of position or damaged the wiring to it.
My Buick Century won't start after replacing the serpentine belt. Does anyone have a theory?
was the car running when it was broke?
the belt is often also a timing belt.. .and if the car was running you may need to get the timing reset on it... that can cause it to not start...
shouldn't be too expensive to fix the timing
check the battery .
%26gt;%26gt; The belt snapped this afternoon and I replaced it,
Did you replace it correctly? Is the belt on in correct order? I only ask because it was broken you didn't have any example to see what it WAS like.
good Luck...
Timing marks off line them up and it should start.
Try checking your battery connections if you haven't already. They only need to be a tiny bit loose to cause problems. Also try checking the water in the battery if it gets low it can ruin your battery.
is a v6?
check for spark. check for fuel. the belt may have hit the crank sensor when is snapped. U will have a crank sensor only if your car is distributor less.
Good luck
the serpentine belt has nothing to do with the timing of the motor. Not to make you feel dumb or anything is there gas in it? You would be amazed how many people overlook that. There is really no reason that belt would make your motor not start
Check your plugs, is there fuel on them? Check your spark at the plugs! Does the engine sound funny when you try to start it? If the timing belt broke, the engine will spin over MUCH faster than normal and will sound like there is no resistance to it 鈥hich there is not anymore if the belt broke.
I know that the belt that you replaced is not related to the timing belt, but it could be that when the drive belt broke it also broke the timing belt, or caused the chain to jump a tooth on the gear. If the timing if off to much it will not start!
Good luck!
Look for the crank sensor, if the serp belt broke, likely it hit the sensor enough to misalign it, or broke it completely. Common when the belt breaks and slaps against anything in the way!!.
My Buick Century won't start after replacing the serpentine belt. Does anyone have a theory?
Your problem is likely the crankshaft position sensor or the wiring harness leading to it. The sensor on your engine is mounted on a bracket near the harmonic balancer. The belt when it broke may have moved the sensor out of position or damaged the wiring to it.
My Buick Century won't start after replacing the serpentine belt. Does anyone have a theory?
was the car running when it was broke?
the belt is often also a timing belt.. .and if the car was running you may need to get the timing reset on it... that can cause it to not start...
shouldn't be too expensive to fix the timing
check the battery .
%26gt;%26gt; The belt snapped this afternoon and I replaced it,
Did you replace it correctly? Is the belt on in correct order? I only ask because it was broken you didn't have any example to see what it WAS like.
good Luck...
Timing marks off line them up and it should start.
Try checking your battery connections if you haven't already. They only need to be a tiny bit loose to cause problems. Also try checking the water in the battery if it gets low it can ruin your battery.
is a v6?
check for spark. check for fuel. the belt may have hit the crank sensor when is snapped. U will have a crank sensor only if your car is distributor less.
Good luck
the serpentine belt has nothing to do with the timing of the motor. Not to make you feel dumb or anything is there gas in it? You would be amazed how many people overlook that. There is really no reason that belt would make your motor not start
Check your plugs, is there fuel on them? Check your spark at the plugs! Does the engine sound funny when you try to start it? If the timing belt broke, the engine will spin over MUCH faster than normal and will sound like there is no resistance to it 鈥hich there is not anymore if the belt broke.
I know that the belt that you replaced is not related to the timing belt, but it could be that when the drive belt broke it also broke the timing belt, or caused the chain to jump a tooth on the gear. If the timing if off to much it will not start!
Good luck!
Look for the crank sensor, if the serp belt broke, likely it hit the sensor enough to misalign it, or broke it completely. Common when the belt breaks and slaps against anything in the way!!.
How Do I Change Serpentine Belt On 2004 Taurus?
On older vehicles you can simply loosen a bolt on the alternator bracket and go from there. This one looks a little more complicated. its a 3.0 liter V-6. Front of engine is on passenger side of car.
How Do I Change Serpentine Belt On 2004 Taurus?
There is a tension pulley that keeps pressure on the belt. All you need to do is hook a ratchett to it and relieve the pressure while you slip the belt off and the new one on. It will be the pulley that is not connected to any kind of alternator or compressor.
How Do I Change Serpentine Belt On 2004 Taurus?
has idler bearing down low put a 3/8 ratchet in and off loads tension remove old r+r let slack out same way
Special tool required or a 3/8 drive ratchet. Be careful because the tensioner has a lot of force behind it and you could hurt yourself.
you need to back off the tension-er by using the tools previously mentioned if you are strong enough otherwise you need more leverage. You can borrow a special tool for this purpose from auto Zone or Kragen which will make the job easier. be sure to study the belt pattern before removing so you can have a good idea how the new one goes on. so you just relive the tension, slip off the old belt and then put the new one on.
take it to the shop-not a job for inexp-or at least buy the manual-primer for combination skin put site on a dedicated server
How Do I Change Serpentine Belt On 2004 Taurus?
There is a tension pulley that keeps pressure on the belt. All you need to do is hook a ratchett to it and relieve the pressure while you slip the belt off and the new one on. It will be the pulley that is not connected to any kind of alternator or compressor.
How Do I Change Serpentine Belt On 2004 Taurus?
has idler bearing down low put a 3/8 ratchet in and off loads tension remove old r+r let slack out same way
Special tool required or a 3/8 drive ratchet. Be careful because the tensioner has a lot of force behind it and you could hurt yourself.
you need to back off the tension-er by using the tools previously mentioned if you are strong enough otherwise you need more leverage. You can borrow a special tool for this purpose from auto Zone or Kragen which will make the job easier. be sure to study the belt pattern before removing so you can have a good idea how the new one goes on. so you just relive the tension, slip off the old belt and then put the new one on.
take it to the shop-not a job for inexp-or at least buy the manual-
Alternator problem:bought a Suzuki Grand vitara 2005from suzuki dealership last month ,?
they changed drive belt %26amp; afterward I got bad noise. it randomly comes. specially first in the morning start but it won't go. it continues while driving . it is not squiring which I thought it might be. my mechanic looked at it %26amp; said it is alternator. suzuki delaership wants me to drive for a week to see if continued. my concern is they change alternator because it is critical but I am not sure if I take to them they really change alternator. is there anyway they can do something to make noise gone temperory because car is under 90 days exchange warranty. please please any suggestion or recommendation please let me know my mechanic said if I want to fix it is $500
Alternator problem:bought a Suzuki Grand vitara 2005from suzuki dealership last month ,?
I would take it back to the dealership. The dealership is hoping the time will expire and they don't have to fix it. Alternator do not have a break in period, it is either working or not working. If it is making noise the bearing is going out, so let them get you a new one.
Alternator problem:bought a Suzuki Grand vitara 2005from suzuki dealership last month ,?
The dealership is trying to get you to delay getting them to do the repairs until the warranty expires. Then YOU pay for the repairs.
Noises don't go away on their own. If it is in fact the alternator, insist the dealership fix the problem. Document the who, what, where, when and why of your conversations with your mechanic and dealership.
Who did you talk to (your mechanic and the dealership - get their names).
What did you talk about (noisy alternator and the 90 day warranty).
Where (car dealership on [address] and your mechanic at [address]).
When (list all dates - when you bought the car, when the noise started, when you talked to people).
Why (the alternator was making noises as identified by your mechanic).
It could also be the idler pulley or another belt driven accessory. A stethoscope will help to identify the offending part. I use one on my car. They're available at NAPA for about $20.
The better your documentation, the better your chances of winning in small claims court when you have to file.
Alternator problem:bought a Suzuki Grand vitara 2005from suzuki dealership last month ,?
I would take it back to the dealership. The dealership is hoping the time will expire and they don't have to fix it. Alternator do not have a break in period, it is either working or not working. If it is making noise the bearing is going out, so let them get you a new one.
Alternator problem:bought a Suzuki Grand vitara 2005from suzuki dealership last month ,?
The dealership is trying to get you to delay getting them to do the repairs until the warranty expires. Then YOU pay for the repairs.
Noises don't go away on their own. If it is in fact the alternator, insist the dealership fix the problem. Document the who, what, where, when and why of your conversations with your mechanic and dealership.
Who did you talk to (your mechanic and the dealership - get their names).
What did you talk about (noisy alternator and the 90 day warranty).
Where (car dealership on [address] and your mechanic at [address]).
When (list all dates - when you bought the car, when the noise started, when you talked to people).
Why (the alternator was making noises as identified by your mechanic).
It could also be the idler pulley or another belt driven accessory. A stethoscope will help to identify the offending part. I use one on my car. They're available at NAPA for about $20.
The better your documentation, the better your chances of winning in small claims court when you have to file.
Anyone know how to loosen the serpentine belt on a taurus wagon?
I just bought an older (1999) ford taurus wagon and need to change the alternator. Where do they hide the bolts to adjust the tension of the idler? And are there any simple tricks to removing or replacing these alternators?
Thanks a bunch.
Anyone know how to loosen the serpentine belt on a taurus wagon?
you need a special tool if you go to just about any auto parts store you can buy a kit it comes with all the sockets and handles that you will need you might not use it alot but you will be glad you have it when you need it....... all the other ideas could work but it is so close to the strut tower just by the kit it will save you money in band-aids
Anyone know how to loosen the serpentine belt on a taurus wagon?
stick a 3/8 ratchet in the hole and move it to make it looser. you can't adjust the tension. They are set, you just rotate it with a ratchet.
it takes a special wrench but you should be able to push it in the direction to loosen it with your hand spring loaded try that.
in the middle of your tension-er there is a bolt get a wrench.and simply turn the bolt and that will give you play to remove your belt .there is no way to adjust that spring loaded tension-er pulley..if its bad replace it..good luck
the hole doug w. is talking about is in the belt tensioner,it may be 1/2 instead of 3/8 i just helped my son change a belt on his 95 couger %26amp; it was 1/2.just put the breaker bar or ratchet in the square hole in the tensioner %26amp; rotate clockwise to loosen the preload off of the tensioner %26amp; the belt comes right off!
there are two types of tensioner adjusters.one type has a squre hole cut out in it so you can insert a rachet or breaker bar into it and either push or pull to release tension.the other type has a hex head bolt on it usually a 14mm socket on a rachet will dp the trick and again you either push or pull
The tensioner is spring loaded,use a break bar or ratchet to pull the tensioner in and release the belt. This is a square hole the size of the ratchet
Thanks a bunch.
Anyone know how to loosen the serpentine belt on a taurus wagon?
you need a special tool if you go to just about any auto parts store you can buy a kit it comes with all the sockets and handles that you will need you might not use it alot but you will be glad you have it when you need it....... all the other ideas could work but it is so close to the strut tower just by the kit it will save you money in band-aids
Anyone know how to loosen the serpentine belt on a taurus wagon?
stick a 3/8 ratchet in the hole and move it to make it looser. you can't adjust the tension. They are set, you just rotate it with a ratchet.
it takes a special wrench but you should be able to push it in the direction to loosen it with your hand spring loaded try that.
in the middle of your tension-er there is a bolt get a wrench.and simply turn the bolt and that will give you play to remove your belt .there is no way to adjust that spring loaded tension-er pulley..if its bad replace it..good luck
the hole doug w. is talking about is in the belt tensioner,it may be 1/2 instead of 3/8 i just helped my son change a belt on his 95 couger %26amp; it was 1/2.just put the breaker bar or ratchet in the square hole in the tensioner %26amp; rotate clockwise to loosen the preload off of the tensioner %26amp; the belt comes right off!
there are two types of tensioner adjusters.one type has a squre hole cut out in it so you can insert a rachet or breaker bar into it and either push or pull to release tension.the other type has a hex head bolt on it usually a 14mm socket on a rachet will dp the trick and again you either push or pull
The tensioner is spring loaded,use a break bar or ratchet to pull the tensioner in and release the belt. This is a square hole the size of the ratchet
How do you change a serpentine belt on a 1995 chevy cavalier w/air?
I have replaced the alternator and I have the belt in place but can seem to get the pullies loose enough to put the belt back on.
How do you change a serpentine belt on a 1995 chevy cavalier w/air?
There should be a a %26quot;spring loaded%26quot; tension pulley on it somewhere. Follow the path of the belt until you find it. Once you locate it you should be able to put a socket or wrench on the pulley and pull it (not turn it) as you do you should see the tension on the belt release. Once it is loose enough slip the old belt off. The precess i the same to put it on except you need to have the new belt correctly around all the other pulleys and when you pull on the tension pulley it helps to have someone slip the belt on for you.
Note: It will take a lot more pull to get the new belt on then it did to get the old one off. The old bet has stretched so you don't have to pull as far.
Hope that helps...
How do you change a serpentine belt on a 1995 chevy cavalier w/air?
There should be a tensioner somewhere.
You should be able to wedge a crowbar or ratchet in it and pull up on it to releive the tension.
Look for a piece on there that looks like it can swivel.
Good luck!
You have to retract, pull the tension back, on the idle tensioner pulley. Sometimes it takes alot of muscle.
How do you change a serpentine belt on a 1995 chevy cavalier w/air?
There should be a a %26quot;spring loaded%26quot; tension pulley on it somewhere. Follow the path of the belt until you find it. Once you locate it you should be able to put a socket or wrench on the pulley and pull it (not turn it) as you do you should see the tension on the belt release. Once it is loose enough slip the old belt off. The precess i the same to put it on except you need to have the new belt correctly around all the other pulleys and when you pull on the tension pulley it helps to have someone slip the belt on for you.
Note: It will take a lot more pull to get the new belt on then it did to get the old one off. The old bet has stretched so you don't have to pull as far.
Hope that helps...
How do you change a serpentine belt on a 1995 chevy cavalier w/air?
There should be a tensioner somewhere.
You should be able to wedge a crowbar or ratchet in it and pull up on it to releive the tension.
Look for a piece on there that looks like it can swivel.
Good luck!
You have to retract, pull the tension back, on the idle tensioner pulley. Sometimes it takes alot of muscle.
I have 1998 Camry LE. Just reached 100, 000 miles. Do I need a new water pump when I get timing belt changed?
One repair shop on the phone says I will need new water pump, coolant flush and *850.00. On the other hand the dealer says I may need tow other drive belts (alternator +). Second dealer says I may need a water pump! I do not wish to get stuck with extra costs! any one with experience?
I have 1998 Camry LE. Just reached 100, 000 miles. Do I need a new water pump when I get timing belt changed?
Read your manual. Chances are your camry has treated you very well. Do the same for it. Yes, get a water Pump. It is not that expensive.
I have 1998 Camry LE. Just reached 100, 000 miles. Do I need a new water pump when I get timing belt changed?
Do you NEED a new water pump?
No.
Is it a good idea at this mileage to do the WP with the T-belt? Yes. The reason being if the water pump were not replaced and it were to fail at some point in the future you would have to pay all of that labor again since the timing belt has to be removed to get at it. Now the pump may never fail but it could which is why this is recommended as preventive maintenance. A T-belt on this car whether 4 or 6-cylinder books for 3.0 hours of labor time. Adding the water pump while the mechanic is already in there just adds 0.4 to 0.7 hours of labor time and the cost of the pump and coolant flush. Since the coolant flush is probably due anyway that really isn't even an additional cost.
Similarly, the accessory drive belts have to come off when doing the timing belt. If they are worn or still original there is no labor additional charge to replace them at this time, just the cost of the parts.
In the end it is up to you. To save money now you can opt just to replace the Timing Belt and perhaps the accessory belts as well and leave the pump alone. Ideally a water pump will last the life of the engine but then my shop replaces 4-5 water pumps a week that have failed so it can and does happen. If you opt to leave it alone just keep in mind that if it does fail you will have to pay all that labor a second time. If your willing to take that risk then....
On a 10 year-old car, if those parts have never been changed, then it's a good time to do it. The alternator and other belts have to come off to do the timing belt. The water pump is in there, too. When it fails, then the same parts you're just having replaced have to be removed to replace it.
The incremental cost to replace the belts and water pump when you're replacing a timing belt is little more than the parts themselves. It's relatively cheap insurance against additional expense in the future.
Finally, if the water pump is being replaced, the coolant has to be drained anyway. If the coolant is more than 3 years old, flushing/replacing it is recommended anyway.
Just be sure that the shop isn't billing you the book time for each of these jobs individually. By doing it all together they have significant time (and cost) savings.
my question to you is .why are you going to a dealer for repairs on a 1998 car? there are plenty of good repair facilities out there you just have to ask around. and yes i would also replace the water pump at this time and have them use a timing belt kit .
You might as well - it's past its life expectancy and is likely to go soon. To do it now is a lot less expensive than tearing everything apart again later. And when you change the water pump, you have to change the coolant too.
it is the best time to change it as it is driven by the belt
what if you pay for the job and a month later need a water pump ?
you pay all over again
I have 1998 Camry LE. Just reached 100, 000 miles. Do I need a new water pump when I get timing belt changed?
Read your manual. Chances are your camry has treated you very well. Do the same for it. Yes, get a water Pump. It is not that expensive.
I have 1998 Camry LE. Just reached 100, 000 miles. Do I need a new water pump when I get timing belt changed?
Do you NEED a new water pump?
No.
Is it a good idea at this mileage to do the WP with the T-belt? Yes. The reason being if the water pump were not replaced and it were to fail at some point in the future you would have to pay all of that labor again since the timing belt has to be removed to get at it. Now the pump may never fail but it could which is why this is recommended as preventive maintenance. A T-belt on this car whether 4 or 6-cylinder books for 3.0 hours of labor time. Adding the water pump while the mechanic is already in there just adds 0.4 to 0.7 hours of labor time and the cost of the pump and coolant flush. Since the coolant flush is probably due anyway that really isn't even an additional cost.
Similarly, the accessory drive belts have to come off when doing the timing belt. If they are worn or still original there is no labor additional charge to replace them at this time, just the cost of the parts.
In the end it is up to you. To save money now you can opt just to replace the Timing Belt and perhaps the accessory belts as well and leave the pump alone. Ideally a water pump will last the life of the engine but then my shop replaces 4-5 water pumps a week that have failed so it can and does happen. If you opt to leave it alone just keep in mind that if it does fail you will have to pay all that labor a second time. If your willing to take that risk then....
On a 10 year-old car, if those parts have never been changed, then it's a good time to do it. The alternator and other belts have to come off to do the timing belt. The water pump is in there, too. When it fails, then the same parts you're just having replaced have to be removed to replace it.
The incremental cost to replace the belts and water pump when you're replacing a timing belt is little more than the parts themselves. It's relatively cheap insurance against additional expense in the future.
Finally, if the water pump is being replaced, the coolant has to be drained anyway. If the coolant is more than 3 years old, flushing/replacing it is recommended anyway.
Just be sure that the shop isn't billing you the book time for each of these jobs individually. By doing it all together they have significant time (and cost) savings.
my question to you is .why are you going to a dealer for repairs on a 1998 car? there are plenty of good repair facilities out there you just have to ask around. and yes i would also replace the water pump at this time and have them use a timing belt kit .
You might as well - it's past its life expectancy and is likely to go soon. To do it now is a lot less expensive than tearing everything apart again later. And when you change the water pump, you have to change the coolant too.
it is the best time to change it as it is driven by the belt
what if you pay for the job and a month later need a water pump ?
you pay all over again
Change Alternator 1998 GMC Sonoma?
Ok, so my alternator went out last night while helping a friend move.
How hard are these things to change? Is it simply just disconnecting the battery, taking off the belt, disconnecting the ground and positive wire from the alternator itself, removing the bolts and you're good to go? Or what?
Change Alternator 1998 GMC Sonoma?
Do not disconnect the battery, just make sure the key is off, it could erase the code to the radio and possibly other computer functions. Just release the tension on the belt tensioner enough to get the alt out, reverse to install, it isn't hard but I have seen people remove the tensioner when all you have to do is pull down on the spring loaded nut holding it on the pulley, good luck.
Change Alternator 1998 GMC Sonoma?
Yep. It's pretty easy.
Just make sure you connect the negative battery cable AFTER you connect the positive.
that about it it just doin it
DO disconnect the battery. (neg cable is enough.)
That's pretty much all there is to it. You only need to disconnect the negative battery cable, not both.
Yes you have it down real good just do as you said and you are good to go , Good luckcurly hair myspace tweaks
How hard are these things to change? Is it simply just disconnecting the battery, taking off the belt, disconnecting the ground and positive wire from the alternator itself, removing the bolts and you're good to go? Or what?
Change Alternator 1998 GMC Sonoma?
Do not disconnect the battery, just make sure the key is off, it could erase the code to the radio and possibly other computer functions. Just release the tension on the belt tensioner enough to get the alt out, reverse to install, it isn't hard but I have seen people remove the tensioner when all you have to do is pull down on the spring loaded nut holding it on the pulley, good luck.
Change Alternator 1998 GMC Sonoma?
Yep. It's pretty easy.
Just make sure you connect the negative battery cable AFTER you connect the positive.
that about it it just doin it
DO disconnect the battery. (neg cable is enough.)
That's pretty much all there is to it. You only need to disconnect the negative battery cable, not both.
Yes you have it down real good just do as you said and you are good to go , Good luck
How hard is it to replace a timing belt on a 2000 Honda Civic?
I have not done any real work on cars for a number of years. The occational alternator and oil changes. I would like to know if I could pull off doing this timing belt thing on my own. Is there that much to it? Does it take any wierd tools? Or would it be easier to pay someone to do it. I have all the basic tools for regular maintenace. Does the car need to be re-timed when I am done?
How hard is it to replace a timing belt on a 2000 Honda Civic?
Well it is a time consuming job, but not terribly difficult. As the engine is transverse mounted there is very little clearance in which to work and you have to be a little bit of a contortionist and have a reasoable number of adapters and extensions to get into the tight places. There may additionally be a couple of TORX fittings, though I cannot recall if Honda uses those in place of Allen fittings where flush mounted hands are required for clearance.
Also, as I recall, Honda recommends changing the water pump when you change the belt, as you have done most of the work to get access to it when you do a belt change and it would be a shame to have done all of that only to have to be back in there again should the water pump fail.
As to changing the belt, there are a couple of covers to remove and often some components are in the way. It varies from car to car, but it is not unusual to have to remove things like air filter housings, radiator reservoirs, windshield wiper tanks, and sometimes even starter motors and alternators. It just depends upon what you find in the way.
Any good Chilton's or Haynes manual will detail the procedure for changing the belt itself, and how to get the timing right when you do.
It is terribly important, of course, that the cam shaft and crank shaft pulleys remain in precisely the same relationship to one another that they are now in. If one rotates even a tooth out of the current relationship they car will run very poorly, if at all. Fortunately, Hondas are what are called %26quot;non-interference%26quot; engines, which means that even with a valve fully extended it can never get low enough to strike a piston when it is at the top of its range. Accordingly, if you get it wrong the worst that happens is that your car either will not run, or will run badly, but no internal damage to the valves or pistons will result. and then you will have to go back and recheck your timing marks.
On most cars you will have to remove the old belt before you can put the new one on, and so you will have to refer to the manual for aligning the timing marks. However, sometimes there is just enough room on the cam and crank pulleys to push the belt to the innner edge and slip on the edge of the new belt on the outer. If so, then timing is assured and one just takes a sharp blade, cuts off the old belt to get it out of the way, and then slides the new belt on the remainder of the way.
Now one other important thing to do is, after the new belt is in place, but before you have put everything else back together, you put a large wrench or socket and rachet on the crank shaft bolt and turn the engine over a few times, just to make sure it turns smoothly to assure that you have assembled it properly. Turning it over slowly will apply far less stress to the system if something is awry than would a starter motor.
Also, do not buy a cheap belt. Get the belt from the dealer. You may pay $15 or $20 more for it, but in that the far greater investment here is your time, as this can take a shade-tree mechanic several hours, it is not worth scrimping on a belt that may fail prematurely.
How hard is it to replace a timing belt on a 2000 Honda Civic?
If you have to ask-
It is too hard for you.
Good luck if you try. i suggest you take it to someone who knows what to do
dont do it without shop manual....just b cause u can turn a wrench doesn't mean u wouldn't mess up timing and ruin engine. the timing belt set up and running engine timimg are 2 different things....
Is it your car? If so...go buy a repair manual for it. $20 and decide for yourself.
When ever I buy a car (used), that's one of the FIRST things I buy for it.
If your car is at the point where you need the timing belt changed, I would suggest bringing it in for service regardless of whether you can do it yourself or not. Events such as this should provide you the excise to get a professional once-over to see if there is anything else near failure as well that you cannot visually inspect by lifting the hood.
This idea may be a bit more expensive then you want, but investing a little money in a 7 year old Honda is an excellent investment as this car could easily run for 15 years if well maintained.
its not too hard. you'll find more frustration in the fact that you have to take a bunch of stuff off the car to be able to get at the belt. they really cram that engine in there.
Changing a timing belt is not excessively difficult. Typcially its getting to it that's the most difficult. Especially how they pack the engines into the vehicles these days.
The other important thing is making sure everything is properly re-assembled before starting the engine. This especially means making sure the timing is correct before re-assembling everything. If the timing is off by even one tooth, you could have pistons hitting valves and requiring major engine repair.
To answer all your little questions:
Typically a timing belt replacement does not need any %26quot;weird%26quot; tools. You'll need a good pry bar and a breaker bar to remove the bolt typically attached to the harmonic balancer (the hardest part to remove). If you have an air gun, it would probably be the best.
It would definitely be easier to pay someone to do it, but it's not an impossible job for someone who is mechanically inclined and if it's your first time, give yourself at least the weekend to get the job done.
If you know how to follow instructions you can do anything, don't be scare to do anything if you know you can do it. To change a timing belt is easy. Go to Auto Zone and buy the Book of the year and model of your car. Them read it very carefully. Honda have a tensioner pulley that lose the belt. You maybe need help of someone to hold the tensioner when they pull it when you change the belt. If the socket handle is short, look for a long iron tube put it in the handle to help you to pulled. is easier that way. I am a woman and I did change the water pump of my Honda Accord of 2004. including put new belt. I did follow the book instructions and it work. Honda wanted $878.00 to do it for me. Hell no!!! I said.
I went to Auto Zone and to do it my self it cost me just $85.95. Whoa!!! True.
Also don't be shy of asking for help to people that work in garages, ask them where is located the tensioner. if you don't know where. and ask them to show you. some people are nice and can tell you how.
Don't be afraid but always take pictures before you start your job so you can remember how to put it back if you don't know how. Follow book instructions as well.
Good luck!!!
How hard is it to replace a timing belt on a 2000 Honda Civic?
Well it is a time consuming job, but not terribly difficult. As the engine is transverse mounted there is very little clearance in which to work and you have to be a little bit of a contortionist and have a reasoable number of adapters and extensions to get into the tight places. There may additionally be a couple of TORX fittings, though I cannot recall if Honda uses those in place of Allen fittings where flush mounted hands are required for clearance.
Also, as I recall, Honda recommends changing the water pump when you change the belt, as you have done most of the work to get access to it when you do a belt change and it would be a shame to have done all of that only to have to be back in there again should the water pump fail.
As to changing the belt, there are a couple of covers to remove and often some components are in the way. It varies from car to car, but it is not unusual to have to remove things like air filter housings, radiator reservoirs, windshield wiper tanks, and sometimes even starter motors and alternators. It just depends upon what you find in the way.
Any good Chilton's or Haynes manual will detail the procedure for changing the belt itself, and how to get the timing right when you do.
It is terribly important, of course, that the cam shaft and crank shaft pulleys remain in precisely the same relationship to one another that they are now in. If one rotates even a tooth out of the current relationship they car will run very poorly, if at all. Fortunately, Hondas are what are called %26quot;non-interference%26quot; engines, which means that even with a valve fully extended it can never get low enough to strike a piston when it is at the top of its range. Accordingly, if you get it wrong the worst that happens is that your car either will not run, or will run badly, but no internal damage to the valves or pistons will result. and then you will have to go back and recheck your timing marks.
On most cars you will have to remove the old belt before you can put the new one on, and so you will have to refer to the manual for aligning the timing marks. However, sometimes there is just enough room on the cam and crank pulleys to push the belt to the innner edge and slip on the edge of the new belt on the outer. If so, then timing is assured and one just takes a sharp blade, cuts off the old belt to get it out of the way, and then slides the new belt on the remainder of the way.
Now one other important thing to do is, after the new belt is in place, but before you have put everything else back together, you put a large wrench or socket and rachet on the crank shaft bolt and turn the engine over a few times, just to make sure it turns smoothly to assure that you have assembled it properly. Turning it over slowly will apply far less stress to the system if something is awry than would a starter motor.
Also, do not buy a cheap belt. Get the belt from the dealer. You may pay $15 or $20 more for it, but in that the far greater investment here is your time, as this can take a shade-tree mechanic several hours, it is not worth scrimping on a belt that may fail prematurely.
How hard is it to replace a timing belt on a 2000 Honda Civic?
If you have to ask-
It is too hard for you.
Good luck if you try. i suggest you take it to someone who knows what to do
dont do it without shop manual....just b cause u can turn a wrench doesn't mean u wouldn't mess up timing and ruin engine. the timing belt set up and running engine timimg are 2 different things....
Is it your car? If so...go buy a repair manual for it. $20 and decide for yourself.
When ever I buy a car (used), that's one of the FIRST things I buy for it.
If your car is at the point where you need the timing belt changed, I would suggest bringing it in for service regardless of whether you can do it yourself or not. Events such as this should provide you the excise to get a professional once-over to see if there is anything else near failure as well that you cannot visually inspect by lifting the hood.
This idea may be a bit more expensive then you want, but investing a little money in a 7 year old Honda is an excellent investment as this car could easily run for 15 years if well maintained.
its not too hard. you'll find more frustration in the fact that you have to take a bunch of stuff off the car to be able to get at the belt. they really cram that engine in there.
Changing a timing belt is not excessively difficult. Typcially its getting to it that's the most difficult. Especially how they pack the engines into the vehicles these days.
The other important thing is making sure everything is properly re-assembled before starting the engine. This especially means making sure the timing is correct before re-assembling everything. If the timing is off by even one tooth, you could have pistons hitting valves and requiring major engine repair.
To answer all your little questions:
Typically a timing belt replacement does not need any %26quot;weird%26quot; tools. You'll need a good pry bar and a breaker bar to remove the bolt typically attached to the harmonic balancer (the hardest part to remove). If you have an air gun, it would probably be the best.
It would definitely be easier to pay someone to do it, but it's not an impossible job for someone who is mechanically inclined and if it's your first time, give yourself at least the weekend to get the job done.
If you know how to follow instructions you can do anything, don't be scare to do anything if you know you can do it. To change a timing belt is easy. Go to Auto Zone and buy the Book of the year and model of your car. Them read it very carefully. Honda have a tensioner pulley that lose the belt. You maybe need help of someone to hold the tensioner when they pull it when you change the belt. If the socket handle is short, look for a long iron tube put it in the handle to help you to pulled. is easier that way. I am a woman and I did change the water pump of my Honda Accord of 2004. including put new belt. I did follow the book instructions and it work. Honda wanted $878.00 to do it for me. Hell no!!! I said.
I went to Auto Zone and to do it my self it cost me just $85.95. Whoa!!! True.
Also don't be shy of asking for help to people that work in garages, ask them where is located the tensioner. if you don't know where. and ask them to show you. some people are nice and can tell you how.
Don't be afraid but always take pictures before you start your job so you can remember how to put it back if you don't know how. Follow book instructions as well.
Good luck!!!
How do I change an alternator in a 2000 caddy escalade.?
I keep reading just remove the belt, undo the bolts and wires remove then put in new and do the reverse. Where is the belt located can I do this from the top of the vehice or does this require me to get on the ground and go in underneath?
How do I change an alternator in a 2000 caddy escalade.?
You can't do this yourself. Believe me it is not easy for a beginner. Take the truck to your neighborhood mechanic, he will only charge you $50 or so. Before you do, why do you think you need an alternator? It should not have gone bad yet.
How do I change an alternator in a 2000 caddy escalade.?
the alternator is right in front of you. you can't figure it out??
What you need to do is take that wasteful, gas guzzler back to the dealership and get a Honda CRV or other hybrid! Why in the hell would anyone need such a big, ugly, wasteful vehicle?
How do I change an alternator in a 2000 caddy escalade.?
You can't do this yourself. Believe me it is not easy for a beginner. Take the truck to your neighborhood mechanic, he will only charge you $50 or so. Before you do, why do you think you need an alternator? It should not have gone bad yet.
How do I change an alternator in a 2000 caddy escalade.?
the alternator is right in front of you. you can't figure it out??
What you need to do is take that wasteful, gas guzzler back to the dealership and get a Honda CRV or other hybrid! Why in the hell would anyone need such a big, ugly, wasteful vehicle?
My Car Belt Keeps Squealing??
T make a long story short I have a 1988 mercury grand marquis colony park wagon. It onl has 50,000 original miles. Not a bad car, but ever since we changed the alternator, the belt began squeaking badly. Then we realized that the belts were bad, and we replaced the belts.
Soon, it started squealing again as the new belt got broken in and loser. We kept tightening up the alternator, because it was coming from that belt {and that was really the only thing we could tighten up}, but now the alternator is tightened all the way and it keeps squealing. It only happens when it is cold and you have too many things on, like the radio and the headlights on at the same time, with the heat.
The car is power everything, and I don't think its the alternator {Its a regular 65 amp alt. not a high charging one.}. I bought some belt conditioner, but I have to spray it on every day for it to stop squealing.
Any ideas on how to fix it without getting a new belt?
My Car Belt Keeps Squealing??
The belt tensioner for the alternator is messed up. Change it. What's happening is that the belt keeps getting elongated because the tensioner is causing the belt to drag and the belt will fail again shortly because of this. A new one doesn't cost much or get it from your junk yard.
My Car Belt Keeps Squealing??
misalighned belt
either your belt is a tad too big, or one of your pulleys are misalighned.
Soon, it started squealing again as the new belt got broken in and loser. We kept tightening up the alternator, because it was coming from that belt {and that was really the only thing we could tighten up}, but now the alternator is tightened all the way and it keeps squealing. It only happens when it is cold and you have too many things on, like the radio and the headlights on at the same time, with the heat.
The car is power everything, and I don't think its the alternator {Its a regular 65 amp alt. not a high charging one.}. I bought some belt conditioner, but I have to spray it on every day for it to stop squealing.
Any ideas on how to fix it without getting a new belt?
My Car Belt Keeps Squealing??
The belt tensioner for the alternator is messed up. Change it. What's happening is that the belt keeps getting elongated because the tensioner is causing the belt to drag and the belt will fail again shortly because of this. A new one doesn't cost much or get it from your junk yard.
My Car Belt Keeps Squealing??
misalighned belt
either your belt is a tad too big, or one of your pulleys are misalighned.
A squeaky belt in my car???
I drive a 1998 KIA Sephia (piece of crap, I know) but ever since I've had the alternator belt and power steering belt s changed a few years ago, they sqeal like crazy when I first start my car up. Its particularly bad in cold weather, and when I turn my headlights or my a/c on, it squeals too. After the engine has been running for a while, it stops, but its incredibly annoying and I've had them adjusted and they STILL do it. I've tried the belt dressing that they have too. Didn't work.
Any ideas????
A squeaky belt in my car???
If it was my car and I worked on it today, I'd put two new high quality Gates Belts on it and properly tension them. However, I would make sure to clean the pulleys thoroughly to remove all residue of the belt dressing etc. I don't recommend putting anything on the new belts in the future. Instead, take the car back after a couple months to have the new belts re-tensioned.
Also check the Gates link below to see if your timing belt is due to be changed. If so, you could have all the belts changed at the same time.
A squeaky belt in my car???
If they're not loose then they're dry and need replacement.
I just replaced my wifes serpentine belt and it started squealing shortly afterwards.
I bought a can of belt dressing for it, and I believe that was what it needed.
If you have seperate belts on the engine, then you need to know that they are tensioned correctly.
I have always torqued them at the appropiate item such as the alternator, I test the belt to find a %26quot;play%26quot; about as big as my thumb (looking at the top of a full grown man's thumb)
Then tighten the bolt down.
I learned just recently that a squeak also comes from water pumps.
Loosen the belt that drives the water pump and if the noise stops then you found the problem.
Good Luck!!!
get a good make belt,like gates,or good year.also it might not be the belt,it could be the bearing in the water pump.i remember once i had a squeel and a mech.squirted a little oil in the radiator and it lubercated the bearing in the water pump,and the squeel stopped.maybe the tensioner is weak.
Any ideas????
A squeaky belt in my car???
If it was my car and I worked on it today, I'd put two new high quality Gates Belts on it and properly tension them. However, I would make sure to clean the pulleys thoroughly to remove all residue of the belt dressing etc. I don't recommend putting anything on the new belts in the future. Instead, take the car back after a couple months to have the new belts re-tensioned.
Also check the Gates link below to see if your timing belt is due to be changed. If so, you could have all the belts changed at the same time.
A squeaky belt in my car???
If they're not loose then they're dry and need replacement.
I just replaced my wifes serpentine belt and it started squealing shortly afterwards.
I bought a can of belt dressing for it, and I believe that was what it needed.
If you have seperate belts on the engine, then you need to know that they are tensioned correctly.
I have always torqued them at the appropiate item such as the alternator, I test the belt to find a %26quot;play%26quot; about as big as my thumb (looking at the top of a full grown man's thumb)
Then tighten the bolt down.
I learned just recently that a squeak also comes from water pumps.
Loosen the belt that drives the water pump and if the noise stops then you found the problem.
Good Luck!!!
get a good make belt,like gates,or good year.also it might not be the belt,it could be the bearing in the water pump.i remember once i had a squeel and a mech.squirted a little oil in the radiator and it lubercated the bearing in the water pump,and the squeel stopped.maybe the tensioner is weak.
How do I change a fan belt on a Hyundai Sante Fe?
It is a 2 litre diesel, 4x4, belt driving the water pump and alternator.
How do I change a fan belt on a Hyundai Sante Fe?
Loosen the bolts holding the alternator on it's bracket
Push the alternator toward the pulley so the old belt is slack.
Old belt falls off, new one goes on.
Re-tension the alternator so the belt is tight againg and tighten up all the bolts.
How do I change a fan belt on a Hyundai Sante Fe?
type into search box
how to replace fan belt
how to replace fan belt video
how to replace fan belt Hyundai Sante Fegraphics animation chaep web hosts
How do I change a fan belt on a Hyundai Sante Fe?
Loosen the bolts holding the alternator on it's bracket
Push the alternator toward the pulley so the old belt is slack.
Old belt falls off, new one goes on.
Re-tension the alternator so the belt is tight againg and tighten up all the bolts.
How do I change a fan belt on a Hyundai Sante Fe?
type into search box
how to replace fan belt
how to replace fan belt video
how to replace fan belt Hyundai Sante Fe
I cant figure out how to put the belt back on my engine?
i had to change my alternator and i cant figure out how to put the belt back on correctly. 98 ford escort zx2 sport.
I cant figure out how to put the belt back on my engine?
It's different for every car, so not many people can tell you exactly without showing you a diagram.
The diagram should be on the fan shroud. If not, it should be in the owners manual. If not, go to a used car lot and find a like car and draw your own schematic.
You may also get that info and all other repair info from your manual (Hayne's Repair man.) Costs about twenty bucks at your auto zone and worth every penny. Do NOT purchase Chilton's.
I cant figure out how to put the belt back on my engine?
There should be a diagram under the hood somewhere. If you can't find it, check the owner's manual.
I can't be precise because i haven't changed one on that kind of car but usually all you have to do is loosen the alternator support bracket slide the belt over it and one or two other pulleys make sure they (the pulleys) are all in the same plane so the belt isn't twisted then hand tighten the support,use a tire iron and pull the alternator TIGHT against the belt and retighten the support bracket.
That should do it (use the tire iron for leverage its got to be real tight) some times the owners manual will have a picture of the belt and where/how it goes! (if you don't remember.)
Find your owners manual and from there locate your %26quot;belt tensioner%26quot;. You can ease the tension so replacing the belt is possible.
I cant figure out how to put the belt back on my engine?
It's different for every car, so not many people can tell you exactly without showing you a diagram.
The diagram should be on the fan shroud. If not, it should be in the owners manual. If not, go to a used car lot and find a like car and draw your own schematic.
You may also get that info and all other repair info from your manual (Hayne's Repair man.) Costs about twenty bucks at your auto zone and worth every penny. Do NOT purchase Chilton's.
I cant figure out how to put the belt back on my engine?
There should be a diagram under the hood somewhere. If you can't find it, check the owner's manual.
I can't be precise because i haven't changed one on that kind of car but usually all you have to do is loosen the alternator support bracket slide the belt over it and one or two other pulleys make sure they (the pulleys) are all in the same plane so the belt isn't twisted then hand tighten the support,use a tire iron and pull the alternator TIGHT against the belt and retighten the support bracket.
That should do it (use the tire iron for leverage its got to be real tight) some times the owners manual will have a picture of the belt and where/how it goes! (if you don't remember.)
Find your owners manual and from there locate your %26quot;belt tensioner%26quot;. You can ease the tension so replacing the belt is possible.
Need help changing an Alternator on a Ford Explorer...?
I have a '97 Ford Explorer, V8 and I need to install a new Alternator...
I think I can do it myself, but before I get started is there anything that you can tell me going into this? The serpentine belt looks tricky. Is there anything I want to think about before I tear into it?
I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I think I can do it. Just thought I'd check with you experts!
Thanks in advance, I just dont have the money to have it repaired.. And 'yes' it is the alternator. Not charging a lick...
Need help changing an Alternator on a Ford Explorer...?
It's a relatively easy job, the serpentine belt is the most difficult.
there is a diagram on the fan shroud or the radiator core support if you have difficulty reinstalling the belt.If the diagram is missing, make a diagram before you remove it. take your time.
Need help changing an Alternator on a Ford Explorer...?
If you can get to an Auto Zone store they can give you complete info.
I think I can do it myself, but before I get started is there anything that you can tell me going into this? The serpentine belt looks tricky. Is there anything I want to think about before I tear into it?
I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I think I can do it. Just thought I'd check with you experts!
Thanks in advance, I just dont have the money to have it repaired.. And 'yes' it is the alternator. Not charging a lick...
Need help changing an Alternator on a Ford Explorer...?
It's a relatively easy job, the serpentine belt is the most difficult.
there is a diagram on the fan shroud or the radiator core support if you have difficulty reinstalling the belt.If the diagram is missing, make a diagram before you remove it. take your time.
Need help changing an Alternator on a Ford Explorer...?
If you can get to an Auto Zone store they can give you complete info.
How long should it take to change a alternator on a 2003 yukon xl, 5.3 liter engine?
my battery not charging light has come on the display, I had the alternator checked and it showed that it was right above the weak signal strength. Would I need the tension tool to take the serpentine belt off?
How long should it take to change a alternator on a 2003 yukon xl, 5.3 liter engine?
Yes you need to release the tension, but a wrench will work.
That job can be done in 15 minutes or less if you know how.
How long should it take to change a alternator on a 2003 yukon xl, 5.3 liter engine?
Yes you need to release the tension, but a wrench will work.
That job can be done in 15 minutes or less if you know how.
How do i change the ac belt of a dodge neon 2000 is the same that goes to the power steering and alternator?
The automatic belt tensioner maintains proper tension on the power steering/air conditioning belt. After belt is installed, inspect belt length indicator marks. The indicator mark should be within the minimum belt length and maximum belt length marks. On a new belt, the indicator mark should align approximately with the nominal belt length mark.
How do i change the ac belt of a dodge neon 2000 is the same that goes to the power steering and alternator?
AS Tracy, but leave 1/2 inch play
How do i change the ac belt of a dodge neon 2000 is the same that goes to the power steering and alternator?
AS Tracy, but leave 1/2 inch play
Changed the alternator on my 1992 jeep wrangler and battery still not charging. Changed alternator again. HELP
Charged battery. The battery needle is not moving. Someone said check voltage regulator. Does 1992 have one or is it in alternator? Is belt too tight? How to loosen? Any help?
Changed the alternator on my 1992 jeep wrangler and battery still not charging. Changed alternator again. HELP
Every Wrangler 91 and newer the voltage regulator is built into the ECM, the computer has complete control over the alternator.
Here is a bit I wrote for a Jeep board on testing the newer style alternators:
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
Don鈥檛 pull the cable off the positive terminal on the battery, this is a bad habit. Alternators need power to create power, so if you remove the power it is possible for an alternator stop charging, and hence the vehicle will die, yet the alternator can still be good. Also pulling the positive cable and replacing it creates weird spikes in the electrical system, which can fry things like your ECM.
With the Jeep running, your voltage should be between 14-14.9 volts. 13.0-15.0 volts is acceptable, but it should be 14 something. If it is 14 volts it鈥檚 a pretty good indication the alternator is fine. Every now and then I鈥檝e come across an alternator that puts out 14 volts, but little to no amps. 14 volts @ 1 amp isn鈥檛 enough power to charge anything, but this isn鈥檛 real common.
If you don鈥檛 have 14 volts, you need to check a few other things. Most all alternators have a wire harness going to them. One of these wires is for the field voltage, if you don鈥檛 get power to the field, your alternator won鈥檛 charge. On newer YJs and all TJs, the voltage regulator is controlled by the ECM. On these alternators there are two wires on the back, one constantly cycles between 10-12 volts to control the alternators output, while the other is a reference wire to tell the ECM how much power the alternator is putting out. On CJs and early YJs the voltage regulator is built into the alternator, so the field wire, will have a constant 12 volts. If you have power to the field, but aren鈥檛 getting 14 volts, it鈥檚 a pretty safe bet your alternator is bad.
If your alternator is putting out 16+ volts, stop driving the Jeep. Either your voltage regulator is bad, or (on newer Jeeps with the ECM controlled alternators) your battery could be bad. I鈥檝e come across several newer Jeeps where the ECM will try and over compensate for a bad battery by boosting alternator output. Last WJ I worked on that did this was spiking to 22 volts!
If all else fails, check with your local autoparts store, almost all of them can test your alternator both on and off the Jeep.
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
You're gonna need a multi-meter for this one, if you aren't familiar with them, check out my writeup here:
http://bbb.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/ultimat鈥?/a>
Changed the alternator on my 1992 jeep wrangler and battery still not charging. Changed alternator again. HELP
Never fear, the wannabe mechanic is here. or something like that.
OK, grasshopper. When you put in new alternator your battery is supposed to be fully charged or you may burn the new alternator out.
Now if your battery has a weak cell, it may take a charge but then only hold it for an hour or not charge up at all. Apparently with a new alternator you need to get the battery checked out.
Get a Haynes Repair Manual at the local Auto Zone or auto parts store in your area. It will troubleshoot and show you how to fix your vehicle. Also on the Auto Zone site has a section for vehicle maintenance
If you move the belt it should move I think about a 1/2 inch more or less. Also clean the battery posts. If they are dirty this may prevent the battery from charging. Go to the Dollar Store and they have some battery post cleaner brush there for a buck. Just as good as the $5 one at the parts store.
So when you charged the battery did you get it checked out by the auto parts place. If your battery is good, posts clean, alternator new, then you have to check the cables on your starter which may be loose or broken. They are part of the circuit. But get the manual and it will tell you exactly what to do. May the Force be with you.
Go to Auto Zone or other parts store that will check out your vehicle for free. Call first though as only selected stores do this. Light may be from a jillion things from oxygen sensor bad to low oil pressure but something.Parameter.Add() How big for a toddler quilt
Changed the alternator on my 1992 jeep wrangler and battery still not charging. Changed alternator again. HELP
Every Wrangler 91 and newer the voltage regulator is built into the ECM, the computer has complete control over the alternator.
Here is a bit I wrote for a Jeep board on testing the newer style alternators:
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
Don鈥檛 pull the cable off the positive terminal on the battery, this is a bad habit. Alternators need power to create power, so if you remove the power it is possible for an alternator stop charging, and hence the vehicle will die, yet the alternator can still be good. Also pulling the positive cable and replacing it creates weird spikes in the electrical system, which can fry things like your ECM.
With the Jeep running, your voltage should be between 14-14.9 volts. 13.0-15.0 volts is acceptable, but it should be 14 something. If it is 14 volts it鈥檚 a pretty good indication the alternator is fine. Every now and then I鈥檝e come across an alternator that puts out 14 volts, but little to no amps. 14 volts @ 1 amp isn鈥檛 enough power to charge anything, but this isn鈥檛 real common.
If you don鈥檛 have 14 volts, you need to check a few other things. Most all alternators have a wire harness going to them. One of these wires is for the field voltage, if you don鈥檛 get power to the field, your alternator won鈥檛 charge. On newer YJs and all TJs, the voltage regulator is controlled by the ECM. On these alternators there are two wires on the back, one constantly cycles between 10-12 volts to control the alternators output, while the other is a reference wire to tell the ECM how much power the alternator is putting out. On CJs and early YJs the voltage regulator is built into the alternator, so the field wire, will have a constant 12 volts. If you have power to the field, but aren鈥檛 getting 14 volts, it鈥檚 a pretty safe bet your alternator is bad.
If your alternator is putting out 16+ volts, stop driving the Jeep. Either your voltage regulator is bad, or (on newer Jeeps with the ECM controlled alternators) your battery could be bad. I鈥檝e come across several newer Jeeps where the ECM will try and over compensate for a bad battery by boosting alternator output. Last WJ I worked on that did this was spiking to 22 volts!
If all else fails, check with your local autoparts store, almost all of them can test your alternator both on and off the Jeep.
--------------------------------------鈥?br>
You're gonna need a multi-meter for this one, if you aren't familiar with them, check out my writeup here:
http://bbb.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/ultimat鈥?/a>
Changed the alternator on my 1992 jeep wrangler and battery still not charging. Changed alternator again. HELP
Never fear, the wannabe mechanic is here. or something like that.
OK, grasshopper. When you put in new alternator your battery is supposed to be fully charged or you may burn the new alternator out.
Now if your battery has a weak cell, it may take a charge but then only hold it for an hour or not charge up at all. Apparently with a new alternator you need to get the battery checked out.
Get a Haynes Repair Manual at the local Auto Zone or auto parts store in your area. It will troubleshoot and show you how to fix your vehicle. Also on the Auto Zone site has a section for vehicle maintenance
If you move the belt it should move I think about a 1/2 inch more or less. Also clean the battery posts. If they are dirty this may prevent the battery from charging. Go to the Dollar Store and they have some battery post cleaner brush there for a buck. Just as good as the $5 one at the parts store.
So when you charged the battery did you get it checked out by the auto parts place. If your battery is good, posts clean, alternator new, then you have to check the cables on your starter which may be loose or broken. They are part of the circuit. But get the manual and it will tell you exactly what to do. May the Force be with you.
Go to Auto Zone or other parts store that will check out your vehicle for free. Call first though as only selected stores do this. Light may be from a jillion things from oxygen sensor bad to low oil pressure but something.
What is alternator drive belt for 99 Jeep?
Would faulty cause knocking/ticking sounds? Took into Firestone today, they did oil change and tune-up, said I need new oil pressure switch, which is causig slow oil leak, and new alternator drive belt? Would that cause the %26quot;ticking%26quot; sounds? Almost sounds like a cord is hanging below my Jeep, and as I drive faster it %26quot;bangs%26quot; up against something... I slow down and it slows down... I hear it lightly sometimes when I first start, or at idle. BUT when I go over a bump or pot hole, I can hear it hit %26quot;harder%26quot; than it normally does... maybe exhaust leak? My husband is deployed... I have no %26quot;man%26quot; to assist me in this area, and hate to get ripped off by bringing it to the wrong shop w/ no idea w/ what is going on... Fireston gave me an estimate of $1100 of their %26quot;recommendations%26quot;... like a new site of tires, air filters, etc..... I can do my own air filter, and just bought a K%26amp;N.... I normally change my own oil, but have NO clue what this knocking/ticking/clicking sound is... and the tune-up and oil change I paid Firestone to do for $200, they changed the oil and the spark plugs... that is about it... HELP PLEASE!!!! E-mail at crazyakokie
What is alternator drive belt for 99 Jeep?
wow ok first stop going to firestone ok i work there or at one an dthat one sounds high
oil change 20 bucks
tune-up maybe 35
oil pressure switch might be 20
alternator belt maybe 20
air filter 5 bucks ok first you can do oil chnage then you could make most of the othe repairs as well sounds like you knwo something about cars an dthat you know most of it th ehard part is knowing what is wrong you can find autozone helpful with ow to replace most an dreally you knwo what your needing can just type that into search box an dfind even videos of how to do it like type
how to replace belt alternator
how to replace belt alternator 1999 jeep
how to replace oil sending unit
how to replace spark plugs 1999 jeep
see where im going and if you add video like
how to replace alternator belt video
you can see tha done also im sure you could do most of your car repairs at home an dsave your self big time 200 for the oil an d tune up was great to have someone do it but wouldnt have cost half that if you would have done it if you change oil you could replace oil sending unit most of time its close to oil filter just unscrews and one wire mine cost 12 bucks an dsure sounds coul dbe a belt flying a part you could replace that easy 20 bucks and 20 minutes most of time autozone can print out a how to if you ask an dyou can go to their website type in your info an dlook up place and part price and get a how to do it as well and you can do it if your not sure ask or type what you want to know
What is alternator drive belt for 99 Jeep?
Firestone in MWC, OK charged me $215.80 to change my oil, and replace spark plugs, I'm positive they did NOT change my wires... I had a friend replace the serpentine belt, firestone quoted me $95.24 total, I bought the Gator belt from autozone for like $29.99 FIRESTONE = RIP OFF (even to a girl)
It's still making that clicking sound, like something is loose and knocking around... I crawled under the Jeep, couldn't see ANYTHING hanging down... Thks for everyone's assistance, and appreciation of my husband's serving currently in Afghanistan.
Yes the belts can make a ticking noise , but not a loud banging sound under the car. have you shocks checked and muffler as well. Good luck
Props to your husband for doing what he is doing. As far as you not wanting to be ripped off, simply go to a national chain or a reputable shop that does free estimates on these sorts of things and ask them to show you in the shop what is causing this. You'd be suprised, most shops are not out to rip you off. How could they stay in business ripping everyone off? Most shops are honest, well except Just Brakes and their 99 dollar front and rear brake jobs.
yea i would say check the shocks and struts and all around the wheels for anything that might be loose and check the exhaust system for a leak or another loose part
Yes a loose drivebelt will cause noise under you engine. You may also want to look under the car to see if your Oxygen sensor didn't fall out of the catalytic converter.
If I were you I wouldn't go to them. It shouldn't cost that much money for what needs done to your car.
They are expensive go to a different garage!
Shouldn't cost that much for an hr or two of work!
Alternator belt-30mins tops
Oil pressure switch-10 mins
K%26amp;N filter with housing-30 mins
even at 90 bucks and hour labor and some parts shoudln't be more than 400 dollars
well i am no expert, but ill attempt to explain a lil bit. an alternator creates the power to run functions in the car and restore the battery power, well the alternator is turned by the motor, so the reason the cost would be so high is that it must be taken apart from the engine and is normally located in odd places, i have had to replace an alternator in my honda and it ended up costing extra because it was located under the engine hidden by my axle so they had to remove my tire and move my axle to get to it. and the knocking could be from a belt but belts do not normally knock in a vehicle but make a bit of a skreetching noise. the knock could be caused by a loose heat shield like in my honda and i fixed it by ripping it off. Damned honda needed so much work. also a knocking could be caused by something as simple as the muffler. Dont over look the simpler things like that. get together with a friend lift the car with a jack and rev the engine and find out where the knock could be coming from cuz it xould be a 5 dollar fix vs a 1100 dollar garage visit. also for a last leaving note i respect your significant other as i do not kno if ur married and hope you have the best of luck.
What is alternator drive belt for 99 Jeep?
wow ok first stop going to firestone ok i work there or at one an dthat one sounds high
oil change 20 bucks
tune-up maybe 35
oil pressure switch might be 20
alternator belt maybe 20
air filter 5 bucks ok first you can do oil chnage then you could make most of the othe repairs as well sounds like you knwo something about cars an dthat you know most of it th ehard part is knowing what is wrong you can find autozone helpful with ow to replace most an dreally you knwo what your needing can just type that into search box an dfind even videos of how to do it like type
how to replace belt alternator
how to replace belt alternator 1999 jeep
how to replace oil sending unit
how to replace spark plugs 1999 jeep
see where im going and if you add video like
how to replace alternator belt video
you can see tha done also im sure you could do most of your car repairs at home an dsave your self big time 200 for the oil an d tune up was great to have someone do it but wouldnt have cost half that if you would have done it if you change oil you could replace oil sending unit most of time its close to oil filter just unscrews and one wire mine cost 12 bucks an dsure sounds coul dbe a belt flying a part you could replace that easy 20 bucks and 20 minutes most of time autozone can print out a how to if you ask an dyou can go to their website type in your info an dlook up place and part price and get a how to do it as well and you can do it if your not sure ask or type what you want to know
What is alternator drive belt for 99 Jeep?
Firestone in MWC, OK charged me $215.80 to change my oil, and replace spark plugs, I'm positive they did NOT change my wires... I had a friend replace the serpentine belt, firestone quoted me $95.24 total, I bought the Gator belt from autozone for like $29.99 FIRESTONE = RIP OFF (even to a girl)
Report Abuse
It's still making that clicking sound, like something is loose and knocking around... I crawled under the Jeep, couldn't see ANYTHING hanging down... Thks for everyone's assistance, and appreciation of my husband's serving currently in Afghanistan.
Report Abuse
Yes the belts can make a ticking noise , but not a loud banging sound under the car. have you shocks checked and muffler as well. Good luck
Props to your husband for doing what he is doing. As far as you not wanting to be ripped off, simply go to a national chain or a reputable shop that does free estimates on these sorts of things and ask them to show you in the shop what is causing this. You'd be suprised, most shops are not out to rip you off. How could they stay in business ripping everyone off? Most shops are honest, well except Just Brakes and their 99 dollar front and rear brake jobs.
yea i would say check the shocks and struts and all around the wheels for anything that might be loose and check the exhaust system for a leak or another loose part
Yes a loose drivebelt will cause noise under you engine. You may also want to look under the car to see if your Oxygen sensor didn't fall out of the catalytic converter.
If I were you I wouldn't go to them. It shouldn't cost that much money for what needs done to your car.
They are expensive go to a different garage!
Shouldn't cost that much for an hr or two of work!
Alternator belt-30mins tops
Oil pressure switch-10 mins
K%26amp;N filter with housing-30 mins
even at 90 bucks and hour labor and some parts shoudln't be more than 400 dollars
well i am no expert, but ill attempt to explain a lil bit. an alternator creates the power to run functions in the car and restore the battery power, well the alternator is turned by the motor, so the reason the cost would be so high is that it must be taken apart from the engine and is normally located in odd places, i have had to replace an alternator in my honda and it ended up costing extra because it was located under the engine hidden by my axle so they had to remove my tire and move my axle to get to it. and the knocking could be from a belt but belts do not normally knock in a vehicle but make a bit of a skreetching noise. the knock could be caused by a loose heat shield like in my honda and i fixed it by ripping it off. Damned honda needed so much work. also a knocking could be caused by something as simple as the muffler. Dont over look the simpler things like that. get together with a friend lift the car with a jack and rev the engine and find out where the knock could be coming from cuz it xould be a 5 dollar fix vs a 1100 dollar garage visit. also for a last leaving note i respect your significant other as i do not kno if ur married and hope you have the best of luck.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)